Finestra's sister-cliff is known for a long, overhanging prow of brilliant orange stone that features four of Margalef's best jug hauls, inluding the area's best 7c, Magic Festival, and one of its best 8a's, Sativa Patatica. But that is not all Tenebres has to offer, featuring a compact cliff of classic vertical routes on the left, and a dramatic, 200-foot wide, 40-foot deep horizontal roof on the right.
From Margalef, follow the bridge East across the river towards the "Fonda Tres Pines" Hotel. Heads up for the tree that is literally in the middle of the road! Veer left after the tree, heading up a steep paved road signed for "Ermita Sant Salvador". Continue winding up this road, passing several crags on either side of the canyon. After ~1.8 KM, park at a fork in the road in any of the small pullouts. It looks like there might be a new parking lot going in here.
Browse More Classics in Raco de les Tenebres
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Raco de les Tenebres:
Magic Festival 5.12d Sport, 80 feet
Featured Route For Raco de les Tenebres
Magic Festival 5.12d International : Spain : ... : Raco de les Tenebres
The path to Tenebres snakes around through dense underbrush, thorns & gnarly cactus. Eventually the trail emerges on a small hill, revealing a bird's eye view of a spectacular, overhanging, orange buttress. Magic Festival is one of four world-class lines that breach this magnificent feature. The route is long, continuous & overhanging throughout. Fortunately it also features some of the best jugs at Margalef, making the route a classic enduro jughaul.Begin from the dusty, sloping trail on th...[more] Browse More Classics in International