The eye of every first-time visitor to Margalef is instantly drawn to the striking orange cliffband that towers above the crags of the valley below. This is Raco de les Espadelles, and its one of the best cliffs in the region. The rock is excellent, covered in beautiful colored streaks, and featuring some of the best tufa climbing at Margalef. There are over 50 routes here, ranging from 5.10 to 5.14c, with several open projects and potential for many more.
This crag is easy to see but harder to reach. Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road around the first hairpin, to a set of colorful dumpsters ~50 yds beyond. Turn left onto a good dirt road at the dumpsters. This road is very steep in spots, but generally good, & no problem for passenger cars in normal conditions. Wind up the road for what seems like too long, until the road gains a big plateau at a left hairpin turn. Park at the pullout at this hairpin. There is an abandoned stone shack ~50 yds South of the parking lot.
Browse More Classics in Raco de les Espadelles
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Raco de les Espadelles:
Memoria Histerica 5.11a Sport, 60 feet
Draculin 5.12a Sport, 60 feet
El Sistema 5.13a Sport, 75 feet
Featured Route For Raco de les Espadelles
Draculin 5.12a International : Spain : ... : Raco de les Espadelles
A great line of pumpy 2 & 3-finger pockets, slightly overhanging & very continuous. Begin from a short cheater tower with the left hand in a cool bowling ball 2-finger pocket. Make a big move to a mailslot, then follow big sequential pockets up & eventually right to a flake. Move back left to a square pocket below a brown bulge & an awkward shake. Work over the bulge to a big hole and another rest. Move right, then up to a horizontal break. Move left & up the tricky "slab" to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in International