Enjoying the steep slab of "Lo Xispero" at Raco de...
"Finestra" is probably Margalef's best crag. With over 60 routes, from 5.11a to 5.14d (not to mention several open projects with proposed grades in the 5.15b-range) this crag has something for just about everyone. While famous for its unparalleled concentration of cutting edge routes, this cliff's high number of "moderates" are what keep the crowds coming back. This cliff has more than 10 high-quality 5.11's (including Magrana, one of the best routes at Margalef), around twenty 5.12s, and ten 5.13s.
The Finestra cliff is taller & more consistently angled than most other Margalef cliffs. The routes tend to be long & consistently steep, generally lacking the bulbous roofs & bulges found at other cliffs, making the climbing more endurance-oriented. Some of Margalef's best stone can be found here, highly pocketed, and with several of the more classic lines such as Montgronyeta featuring engaging tufa curtains.
The cliff is a large, semi-circular amphitheatre with a north-facing center. Some of the routes on either end get sun at various times, but generally this crag is shaded all day. There are a number of impresseive overhangs that stay dry in the rain, though the grades on these cliffs start at 5.13a and go up in a hurry.
Other must do routes include Okemaka, 5.11b, for the bolted crack enthusiast, Entretres, perhaps Margalef's best 5.12a, Antologica, 5.12d, with more tufa curtains, Aeroplastica, 5.13a, an excellent pocket line, Dando Brea, 5,13b, an ultra steep power problem, El Fustigador, 5.13c, a long, steep enduro line, Aitzol, a steep enduro line & Margalef's most popular 5.14b, and the long 45 degree overhang of Victimes del Futur, Margalef's first 5.14c.
From Margalef, follow the bridge East across the river towards the "Fonda Tres Pines" Hotel. Heads up for the tree that is literally in the middle of the road! Veer left after the tree, heading up a steep paved road signed for "Ermita Sant Salvador". Continue winding up this road, passing several crags on either side of the canyon. After ~1.8 KM, park at a fork in the road in any of the small pullouts. It looks like there might be a new parking lot going in here.
Follow a steep trail on the right (South) side of the road. Switchback up for ~3 minutes to arrive below a big orange, chossy wall with a gray slab above. Head right for Tenebres, and a few neglected Finestra routes. Otherwise head left, back into the woods for a short bit, to emerge below another orange, chossy-looking wall with a big gray slab above. A cliffbase trail continues left to the central & left sectors of Finestra.
This slightly overhanging, jug-covered wall, is one of the best 5.12a's at Margalef. The unassuming wall of dark cobbles hides a discontinuous, snaking like of killer huecos, split by a few thin boulder problems.The intimidating start is not too bad once you locate the key hold. Work up to the double horizontal break, and the route's hardest move. A super-thin 2-finger pocket leads to a small incut knob, and then the first of a long chain of huecos. Hero pulls wind up to another thin section...[more]Browse More Classics in International