Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? 
Bunga Bunga 
Handsome Parish Lady 
Indecent Insertion 
Jug Abuse 
Killer Bee 
Maalox Moment 
Mr. Wong's Zipper 
New Wave 
Old Wave 
Omdulation Fever 
Psycho Thriller 
Racist Fantasy 
Top Hat 
Turkey Baster 
Tutti Frutti 
Unnamed Left 
Unnamed Right 

Racist Fantasy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ed Rombach, Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 30, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Follow the black streak, cranking up on shallow pockets and/or reachy moves between them, for the first 4 bolts (crux). Then two good rest stances with more featured climbing between them, followed by a bolt-protected hand crack to the anchor.


This climb is on a black streak on the right side of a clean wall whose base is higher than most of the other routes (E Pluribus.. is also on this wall, to the left).

From a climb like Bananarama, go uphill and left, passing Earth Monster and 3 other climbs, to the highest wall with routes on it, just left of a left-facing corner.


8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Comments on Racist Fantasy Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 30, 2009

We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.