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 ADVANCED
Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? S 
Bananarama S 
Black Streak S 
Bunga Bunga S 
Didgemaster S 
Handsome Parish Lady S 
Indecent Insertion S 
Jug Abuse S 
Killer Bee S 
Kona S 
Maalox Moment S 
Manhattan S 
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
New Wave S 
Old Wave T 
Omdulation Fever S 
Pepto-Dismal S 
Psycho Thriller TR 
Racist Fantasy S 
Top Hat S 
Turkey Baster S 
Tutti Frutti S 
Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Racist Fantasy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ed Rombach, Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 30, 2009

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Description 

Follow the black streak, cranking up on shallow pockets and/or reachy moves between them, for the first 4 bolts (crux). Then two good rest stances with more featured climbing between them, followed by a bolt-protected hand crack to the anchor.

Location 

This climb is on a black streak on the right side of a clean wall whose base is higher than most of the other routes (E Pluribus.. is also on this wall, to the left).

From a climb like Bananarama, go uphill and left, passing Earth Monster and 3 other climbs, to the highest wall with routes on it, just left of a left-facing corner.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor


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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 30, 2009

We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.