Racist Fantasy  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Ed Rombach, Tom Wezwick Submitted By:  George Perkins on Aug 30, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Follow the black streak, cranking up on shallow pockets and/or reachy moves between them, for the first 4 bolts (crux). Then two good rest stances with more featured climbing between them, followed by a bolt-protected hand crack to the anchor.

Location 

This climb is on a black streak on the right side of a clean wall whose base is higher than most of the other routes (E Pluribus.. is also on this wall, to the left).

From a climb like Bananarama, go uphill and left, passing Earth Monster and 3 other climbs, to the highest wall with routes on it, just left of a left-facing corner.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor