Racing The Moon
||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Henze, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Cyrena Goodrich, Mark Hathaway, '88|
|Page Views: ||1,261|
|Submitted By: ||dcohn on May 22, 2010|
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Start in a short, shallow dihedral that is naturally protected. Start clipping bolts and climb through a lower angle section of moderate difficulty. Rest on a ledge and clip the bolt before the reachy crux. Climb on good holds to a flake and get a few small pieces in before the exciting finish. The moves are interesting, the rock quality good, and the bolt spacing and pro added some spice.
This is near the bottom of the gully that most people will use to climb out of and into Bare Ass and Turret Rocks. There are two pretty big cliffs separated by a chimney. This route starts on the right side of the left cliff. It starts in a shallow right facing dihedral that quickly turns into a face.
It is mostly bolted but most people will use small nuts and micro cams for the beginning and the end. There are chains and a directional bolt on top.
By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I love this route! The pitch is reasonably long and starts with fairly easy moves which get harder the higher you go. The crux is the last move done over good stoppers. Take a rack of small to large stoppers and small to medium cams. RTM has some of the best steep face climbing at Windy Point. Enjoy!