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PSOM Slab
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PSOM Pinnacle T 
Racing Lizards T 
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Racing Lizards 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Barry Hutten, 5/2003 GU
Page Views: 2,564
Submitted By: live_it on May 28, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Racing Lizards 5.7

Description 

3 Pitches of fun climbing.

-Pitch one starts in a short wide crack/chimney, then easy 3rd class leads to a slab with one bolt before a straight-in crack.

-Pitch two starts with slab moves protected by 2 bolts, followed by some under-clinging cracks, next comes more slab protected by 2 more bolts, this pitch is finished by a wide easy crack

-Pitch three starts with a high reach to the first bolt, followed by a left arching crack/ under-cling which you move out into one of two wide crack/flares. Head up towards a mini roof protected by a bolt, finish up this slab protected by one more bolt

Rappel route three times with double ropes

Location 

Middle of PSOM slab, starts in a bushy crack to the left of PSOM Pinnacle

Protection 

Gear to 3" plus 4 draws


Photos of Racing Lizards Slideshow Add Photo
Good time slabs.
Good time slabs.
Pitch two of Racing Lizards
Pitch two of Racing Lizards
Thin hands section, P1
Thin hands section, P1
The 'snow' crux of Racing Lizards on Dec. 23rd, 2013.  A few feet later the 'ice' crux.
The 'snow' crux of Racing Lizards on Dec. 23rd, 20...

Comments on Racing Lizards Add Comment
Show which comments
By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
May 28, 2011

Had a blast on this route, great variety of climbing with crack, face, under-clings, liebacks, and even a mini roof that was super easy.

Pitch 1- a bolt has been added below the crack, and was not on the topo, this confused me and I got a little off route, but on easy ground and was able downclimb and start up the crack, which was the highlight of the route for me. Used a draw, #2 Metolius, 2 .5 C4's, and a .75 C4

Pitch 2- The face moves were fun and well protected once you get to the first bolt. The upper face moves and crux was moving from one flare to the other, pretty far above the last bolt, but still not too bad. Upper part in wide crack/flare was fun. Used 4 draws, #3 C4, and a #2 Metolius or blue Alien, i forget.

Pitch 3- The moves above the anchor to get to first bolt were a bit tough for a factor 2 fall, guess I could have thrown in a cam. Past that bolt was very fun, combo of lieback and under cling. This was the routefinding and crux of the route for me. The moves the go right over the mini roof to the flared crack were pretty thin, and i was a few feet above a sketchy blue Alien. I ended up traversing over and back, which worked. Finally I got an OK #1 C4 and spotted the bolt, which was on a short vertical roof and hard to see. Clipped that and shot up to the anchors. ended up using 3 draws, blue alien, #1 C4, and a #2 Metolius i think

This is a great beginner route, as it will teach someone a lot of the aspects of climbing.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
May 30, 2011

There is now a bolted start to this climb. It starts just right of the low angle gully and ascends the slab on 4 bolts or so to the crack.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Took a friend here for the first pitch to teach him some basics this past summer, came back and finished the route as a nice warmup recently.

P1 - The bolted 5.8 variation didn't quite feel 5.8 to me, so don't be spooked off by the grade if you are pushing it or whatnot. Even if you are, the bolts are tightly spaced.

P2 - Slab moves, not very memorable. Nebulous routefinding at times.

P3 - More nebulous routefinding after the cool start near the "roof"

In all, not so sure I would recommend the upper two pitches. And I like slab climbing. First pitch is totally cool though!
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 6, 2013

Single rack to #2 will do just fine. Didn't use doubles or nuts at all.

Fun. Pretty slabby for most of the route.
By J. Hickok
Aug 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not very memorable, as a lot of the climbing is not very remarkable or distinguishable - and there are a myriad of climbing options, amounting to a very wandering route by which many paths will go at or near the 5.7 grade. The rock is mostly good, however, and the crack on P1 is fun and likely well remembered. Mostly just easier slab climbing. Probably a great learning experience for those beginning to place gear more confidently. The "5.8" start felt like 5.7.
By SteveG
Aug 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wish I knew about the bolted 5.8 start before I headed up, regardless it is a good route. Quality rock and would be a good climb for new leaders.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Dec 23, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

good route, but a bit contrived on P3. i would not call this a good beginner's route because there is a bit of route finding involved (P3) and the move over the arch on P3 is not well protected. from the top of P3 it is easy to access the 'Silver Streak' anchor, about 20' to the right and slightly lower.