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Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Race With The Devil 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1979
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

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Catching a freebie, P-1 Race With The Devil c. 198...

Description 

Good thin climbing with a serious runout on the first pitch.

Pitch 1: Do hard thin moves (11d) to make a difficult clip of the single bolt on the pitch. Pass the bolt and continue on the potential ground fall runout (10b) to No Go Ledge.

Pitch 2: From the left end of No Go Ledge climb past bolts (11b) to gain a prominent "fin". At the fin there are two choices, both runout. Either continue up the fin to the last bolt on the second pitch of Valhalla (5.7) or go up and right to the Hesitation belay (5.8).

Pitch 3: Depending on which belay was chosen, do either the 3rd pitch of Valhalla or the second pitch of Hesitation.


Location 

Between Buttress Chimney and the first pitch of New Generation.

Protection 

Bolts, thin to 2".


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

Stiff pulls and a good set-up for some of the harder routes at Suicide. The second pitch is pretty cool too.
By John Long
Jul 14, 2011

It might only be rated 5.11d but you better be a solid 5.12 face climber if you plan on on-sighting this baby on the lead.
By Alex Shainman
Nov 24, 2015

Hi, I have a FA history question on this route. How was the first pitch bolt drilled? I'm 6' tall and with my left foot on the only good foothold (after busting out the hard crux start) that "stance" seemed way too low to hand drill that bolt. There is a creaky hold, left of the bolt, which could've been hooked. How'd he do dat?

Might as well ask this general question here...
How many routes at Suicide were bolted on aid (hooks).
By Darrell Hensel
Dec 4, 2015

You'd have to ask Tony. I always assumed he drilled it on lead. Seems to me that it is possible, there is a clipping foot hold. Obviously it wouldn't be a fun bolt to drill, but I've seen people get bolts in off stances worse than that. The ethic of the day was almost exclusively ground up, with no aid. Then again, who knows for sure (other than the FA party.)

I don't have a number for total routes that employed hooks. Maybe someone like Gaines knows, although I doubt that as well. Of the routes I was involved in we used hooks on four, on a total of six bolts - if memory serves me right. The norm of the day was to try pretty damn hard not to resort to hooks.

Hooks are an interesting topic. Style does mean something, hooks are aid, we can climb harder than we can bolt free, and once the bolt is in no one really cares how it got there when they're going past it, etc.. Hooks do matter, but they don't matter.

Ha, sorry I went off on a tangent without answering the question since I never had a number in the first place.

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