|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Louis Arevalo on May 30, 2004|
|Comments on Rabid Muslim||Add Comment|
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Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|One of my favorite climbs in the Swell. Nice, varied, pumpy. Just watch for rope drag around the first big roof. A good trick is to lead the first part on one rope with lockers on the harness. Then drop that rope and lead the rest with the second rope.|
By James Garrett
Jun 6, 2008
|The FA of this was also done by the late Dave Anderson|
By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2011
way better than the incredible handcrack.
One trick to prevent the rope from pushing your gear into the crack below the roof is to jam a tight #4 Gray Camalot right at the lip. There is a notch that keeps the #4 from being pushed backwards.
use a 70meter rope
From: Stony Brook, NY
Mar 5, 2012
I'll throw in some useful gear / rope beta.
6 each green and red camalots, 2 gold, 2 blue (can save one blue for higher up in the business). Nothin else except maybe a purple .75 at the tippy top.
Instead of fixing a rope below the roof etc (too much screwing around), or jamming a tight #4 (you could get f'd), put a long sling up the initial corner, and back clean through the roof. You;ll be glad you did it that way since it saves you your rope getting pinned or having to do some serious dicking around to follow or rappel it.
My 70m did not come close to reaching.
By Courtney Pace
Feb 9, 2014
|70 M works if belaying up on big ledge. Crux is a a section of .75's up towards the top. The last 20 feet is trivial even though it looks hard from below. .5 is nice to have up top|