This is a right facing dihedral with an obvious roof about 25 feet up, left of Old Bushmills and right of Lite Not Solid. Scramble up large boulder close to the start of Bushmills and belay from block at the base of the climb. Climb 25 ft of good hands to roof. Traverse to lip, pull past lip and enjoy tight hands and off fingers for 60 ft. after 60 feet the dihedral throws a tightening bulge for about ten feet(crux). Once past the bulge keep it together for the varied climbing to the anchors. One of the cleanest routes in Pine Canyon. Doable with a single 70 meter rope.
Numerous pieces in the tight hands rattly fingers range. Handful of hands and a few down to a blue tcu and a few up to a 3.5 camalot. Two bolt anchor.
Greyhghost pulling the lip
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One of my favorite climbs in the Swell. Nice, varied, pumpy. Just watch for rope drag around the first big roof. A good trick is to lead the first part on one rope with lockers on the harness. Then drop that rope and lead the rest with the second rope.
|By James Garrett|
Jun 6, 2008
The FA of this was also done by the late Dave Anderson
|By Brendan N. (grayhghost)|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2011
way better than the incredible handcrack.
One trick to prevent the rope from pushing your gear into the crack below the roof is to jam a tight #4 Gray Camalot right at the lip. There is a notch that keeps the #4 from being pushed backwards.
use a 70meter rope
From: Stony Brook, NY
Mar 5, 2012
I'll throw in some useful gear / rope beta.
6 each green and red camalots, 2 gold, 2 blue (can save one blue for higher up in the business). Nothin else except maybe a purple .75 at the tippy top.
Instead of fixing a rope below the roof etc (too much screwing around), or jamming a tight #4 (you could get f'd), put a long sling up the initial corner, and back clean through the roof. You;ll be glad you did it that way since it saves you your rope getting pinned or having to do some serious dicking around to follow or rappel it.
My 70m did not come close to reaching.
|By Courtney Pace|
Feb 9, 2014
70 M works if belaying up on big ledge. Crux is a a section of .75's up towards the top. The last 20 feet is trivial even though it looks hard from below. .5 is nice to have up top