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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Zot Face, The 

Rabbits From Hats 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Archer, Todd Bibler, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Sep 20, 2008
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Starting the crux.
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  • Description 

    Climb directly up the finger crack start for Disappearing Act. At the rest on DA before the crux moves into the dihedral, layback up and left to an obvious #3-3.5 Friend placement. Climb & layback up the corner for a few moves to a horizontal out left. Get fail safe cams here. Climb up until you are standing on the horizontal and place a good nut and RPs. Continue straight up, clipping a fixed pin along the way, to reach the top of the first half of Disappearing Act. Continue up the second half of DA.


    Location 

    Start on Disappearing Act and head left and up just before DA's crux. Finish on DA. Rap or lower.


    Protection 

    For Rabbits finishing on DA: RPs, Nuts, Aliens/C4s, 2 sets of Friends 1-3, (1) 3.5 and 4.



    Photos of Rabbits From Hats Slideshow Add Photo
    Nearing the pin. <br /> <br />Photo: Nick Archer.
    Nearing the pin.

    Photo: Nick Archer.
    Reaching the horizontal.
    Reaching the horizontal.
    Comments on Rabbits From Hats Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 5, 2010
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

    Fun little outing, maybe 30' of independent climbing. The gear is good, and the moves are strenuous and fun.
    My only complaint is the "direct" start (described above), following the crack from the beginning up to the #3 Friend slot, is pretty contrived, since you can stem back into the "Disappearing Act" corner very easily. Above that, though, "Rabbits" does move left and becomes more independent.
    -Scott