Rabbit Ears Area Rock Climbing
Scott Jones topping out on the Middle Rabbit Ear. ...
The area includes the Rabbit Ears proper with their extension northward as well as Rabbit Ears Towers on the west side of Rabbit Ears Canyon and the western foothills below including Southern Comfort Wall.
There are three Rabbit Ears (this being New Mexico, the home of Trinity with mutations rampant). The South Rabbit Ear is the smallest and getting to the top is a fourth class scramble if you start from the col between South and Middle Rabbit Ears. This is also the start of the Normal Route up the far more technical Middle Rabbit Ear, which is the highest of the three. North Rabbit Ear is home to the longest routes. This is because they start lower in the canyon. All three Rabbit Ears have huge faces of high quality rock. South Rabbit Ear's is primarily to the South, the other two to the East and North.
To the north of the North Rabbit Ear is Cwm with its slanting but surprisingly flat top riding up the flank of its huge neighbor. (Cwm is not really visible in the picture on the right, being tucked behind its large neighbor.) North of it Last Peak, with a similar summit plane, has a fourth class route to its summit, but many more possibilities.
The line of Rabbit Ears Towers makes the west wall of Rabbit Ears Canyon. From the south it starts with Rabbit Ears Massif and continues with ORP and Lesser Spire. Farther north the ridge splits into two. The eastern branch leads to the Citadel, the western one to Zoonotic, Shortline, and Rabbit Ears Slabs.
Little north of Lesser Spire a fin of rock juts out to the west. Its southern face is the Southern Comfort Wall, its end in the west The Fin, and its norther face Northern Exposure. Hot Gates are on a smaller such fin one canyon over to the north, and just west of the Citadel are Rabbit Ears Slabs.
Either come to the peaks from the west, up Rabbit Ears Canyon, or from the east, up from the trail to Baylor Pass.
West Side Approach:
Access to Rabbit Ears Canyon is from Topp Hut Road, which takes off Baylor Canyon Road just north from where Baylor Canyon Road stops being paved. The entry to Topp Hut Road is marked, to the side of it, with a gate made of pipe. Few rock crawlers still do make it all the way to the old mine, but most standard suspension vehicles will stop short of the hut. The road gets harder quite rapidly, so you end up walking most of it anyway.
The road will branch eventually. Take the left branch for everything in the Rabbit Ears Canyon (Buckey Blue, Citadel, the Rabbit Ears themselves, and Orgy on ORP) and the right for the foothills (Southern Comfort, The Fin, Northern Exposure, and Hot Gates) and Lesser Spire.
If on the left fork, continue past the mine up a trail. All versions of this trail will converge shortly and continue fairly obviously to the mouth of Rabbit Ears Canyon. There is one spot where the trail seems to go to the left of a largish boulder. Step up onto the boulder instead and go right.
The terrain gets more interesting as you enter the canyon proper. It's what passes for a paved highway in the Organs - a mix of stepping boulder-to-boulder, walking on sloping rock, and scrambling up short steps.
The Rabbit Ears and their companions will show up when the canyon makes a turn. The North Rabbit Ear is the most prominent, the Middle Rabbit Ear is originally mostly obscured by it almost completely, and the South Rabbit Ear is seen as a smaller tooth to the right.
The right fork will widen at the end and the beat-up trail on the left leading up will wind all the way to the bottom of Southern Comfort and company.
East Side Approach:
As you drive into Aguirre Springs Campground, the trail to Baylor Pass will be the first trail to take off to the right. Go up from it to the saddle of your choice.
Weather station 11.2 miles from here
102 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',36],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Rabbit Ears Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rabbit Ears Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rabbit Ears Area:
Orgy 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 800' ORP
Featured Route For Rabbit Ears Area
Black Velvet 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Southern Comfort Wall
Start at a dead gnarly oak on a ledge 20 ft up the cliff, under a large left facing crack system. A huge roof caps off the final pitch and makes an excellent landmark.Pitch 1 goes right up a fourth class corner onto a large ledge (unless you scramble this part) and then climbs the corner/crack system up to a small belay stance just below a hand traverse left. Pitch 2 (crux) goes out the hand traverse and up a steep layback for a ways. Yucca plants make pulling out of the crack system sticky. Go ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Great view of the Rabbit Ears from the col north o...
By Dylan Pike
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 9, 2014
So, I just spent a beautiful sunny day wandering around the mountain just east of the old mine. I figured that I would share a bit of information regarding the approach to the north end of Rabbit Ears Canyon. After taking the left fork of Topp Hut road, you will come across the mine. There is a wash that heads due east, straight towards the rock face. It starts just past the old mine tailing pile. DO NOT take this wash! Instead, there is a trail that heads north from the mine and crosses a ridge before entering the drainage from the northern entrance to the canyon. This is the trail you want to take! Sorry if I ruined anyone's fun, but this would have been really helpful to my climbing team if we had read it before getting out to the Organs!