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Jon following the second pitch of R-3
This route climbs the downhill side of Tower C (from EFR's book). This is the tower to the Northeast of the prominent gully (you can descend this gully and step across the the belay for pitch 1 if you so desire). (1) Climb ramp up and left toward bolts. Climb face past 5 bolts angling left about 45 degrees to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay. (2) Up and right toward the squeeze to a ledge just below and right of the summit. Either belay on this ledge behind the squeeze (without an anchor) or climb up summit block to cold-shuts. The former provides for less rope-drag, the latter for more security. Either rap off the back side from the summit, or rap the route in two raps.
Standard Rack. Five bolts provide MOST of the protection on pitch 1. One bolt helps on pitch 2. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of pitch 1. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is virtually non-existent unless you climb up to the very top of the tower, or have very large gear with you. On top of the tower are several pairs of cold-shuts for rappelling.
The "Rupley Towers, Tower C Topo" photo in Squeezing The Lemmon III
and Where R We?
(5.10-, R/X) swapped. The error will be corrected in future editions.
BETA PHOTO: Rupley Tower C. Pitch 1 of R3 starts at the arrow...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the base of the climb. Six bolts trend...
belaying barefoot from the top of the second pitch...
By Wes Turner
Jun 4, 2004
I do not advise rapping back down the route unless you want to really work yourself getting the rope down.. if you rap off west then you can walk to the top of the first pitch of R-3 and "bop til ya drop" and then rap to the base.. It is exposed so use caution!
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 19, 2009
Great movement on this classic route.. must try if your at Windy Point