R1 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | John and Ila Rupley, 1960's |
| Submitted By: | kBobby on Dec 14, 2003 |
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P2 of R1
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Description On the second tower from the North (Tower B in EFR's book), just to the right of a chimney (route: R2, 5.6+) you will see a ledge about 30 feet up with a tree and a two-bolt belay. (1) Climb up flake past left facing corner under a bolt to this ledge. (2) Climb straight up left facing corner to crack, then face to top of tower. You can descend to the back side easily with one rappel. If you need to return to the base of the route, you can probably BARELY reach the belay ledge from pitch 1 with a 60m rope. The second pitch is exactly 30m. Be careful, and knot the ends of your rope if you rap the route!
Protection Standard Rack. There is one bolt on the first pitch protecting the traverse. The last 30 feet of the route offers scant protection.
Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also be used as ...
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John Henry working steel....
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BETA PHOTO: R1.
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By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8
| the first pitch is the .8 the rest is fairly easy .7 rap off west or north |
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8
| my bad guys...i was talking about R-3 Ignore those comments above... Solid .8+..... NOVICE .8 leaders watch that move past the bolt on P1! You will feel gripped so make sure you protect in horizontal crack before reaching for bolt on face!! My advice is if you cannot clip the bolt on that face from the stance then get good pro in crack ( maybe two pieces) and just climb past the bolt cause stopping once you've started out on that face would be an easy way to take a whipper. It's up to you! enjoy! |
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 19, 2009
| Awesome classic.. a must do at Mt. Lemmon |
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Apr 9, 2010
| I love this routed!! one of my first gear leads I'm really excited on it. |
By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 2, 2011
| Coordinates in UTM:
12 South 0526927 by 3581197 Datum WGS 84 |
By Spiro
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Fun, bolt is in odd spot and spins. I would put gear in crack. |
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