Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Hours of Labor TR 
Alpha Centauri T 
Angina T,TR 
Angina II T,TR 
Anomie T 
Bucket Brigade T 
Charybdis T,TR 
Coronary T,TR 
Flakes Away TR 
Happy Hunting Grounds T 
Land's End T,TR 
Mother Fletcher's T 
Nice Corner T,TR 
No Fruit Please TR 
Pie Plate TR 
R. Exam T,TR 
Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The T,TR 
Scylla T 
Vivesection T 
Walpurgisnacht Direct T,TR 
Yellow Pages T 

R. Exam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: Tradoholic on May 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Andy on the direct start.

Description 

Follow the watermarks right of Happy Hunting Grounds. Angle left and pass the small overhang on the right side.


Location 

Face right of Happy Hunting Grounds.


Protection 

Only pro is at the crux and after. Solo to crux!



Photos of R. Exam Slideshow Add Photo
Follow the water marks and pass the over-hang on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Follow the water marks and pass the over-hang on t...
At the ledge before the crux, HEFTY run out. Actual climbing is in the watermarks on the right.
At the ledge before the crux, HEFTY run out. Actua...
Andy right before the crux.
Andy right before the crux.
Comments on R. Exam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X

The route description in the guidebook is pretty poor. If one does follow the watermarks it will take them through way harder than 5.9 climbing and it will not take them to an overhang on the right side of the wall. If you go to the right of the watermarks after the first 15 feet and follow a roof section and exit in a shallow dihedral, it is definitely 5.9 climbing. My girlfriend and I did the difficult variation of this route that starts left of the watermark on a good ledge, up to some crimpers, then right to the watermark, straight up to a good ledge via dyno, traverse left 8 feet on a very large ledge to an undercling mini-roof section and then up on sidepulls or edges that finishes on a large sloping ledge. Our proposed route name for this variation is "27 Hours of Labor" with an estimated grade of 5.10d.

By Tradoholic
Sep 27, 2010

Start left with your hands on a nice ledge for better value, then move right and straight up to the baby making ledge for a tricky traverse left. From there set up for an awesome crux. I found some nice C3 placements right at the crux. Too bad I had to solo to get there :(

After the crux moves left for more value under the roof to exit right.

Really good 5.9+ head-test piece of climbing.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X

Yeah, good lead Rhoads. I was nervous for you on this one. My palms were even sweaty until you got to that ledge!

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 28, 2010

Nice heady lead climbing (um er solo climbing) Nick. Nice job. Yikes!