R. A. F. 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dave Houser and Alan Winter, January 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Mark J. Nelson on Nov 8, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: RAF (left) to Hot Knife (right). Copyright 2003, b...
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Description Locate the tall face where The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C. converge; this route is on the second rock to the right. You can access the top of the rock via a fourth-class gully left of the face. R. A. F. is the rightmost of two routes that diverge near the first bolt; Penelope Street (aka Battle of Britain), 5.10a/b, is the left of the two. Nice friction, with the cruxy moves only slightly above bolts.
Protection Three bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Closeup of R.A.F.
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By Randy Dec 18, 2003
| Alan Winter was of British orgin and Dave Houser named the route R.A.F. not for a Royal Air Force as might be supposed, but for Royal [or Real] Ass F*cker -- for the reason Alan's comment below explains. |
By alan winter Feb 7, 2004
| The real reason it was called RAF, was that there was a rather large Yucca with very pointy branches right at the start of the route. In fact, at the start we had to traverse in from the right to get above it. So Dave and I decided on the pun right when we finished the route. I don't know if the Yucca is still there. But the reason for the route name should now be obvious and an inside joke for years. It has been a long time since I climbed. I miss the old crowd of Mike Waugh, Dave, and the others. Randy has an excellent memory to remember that I am English. |
By Kevin Currigan From: Lakewood Feb 13, 2004
| I didn't see that yucca but if I had led this I would have been looking for it (so I wouldn't land on it). This is a real spicy friction climb. There are 0 big holds and its all balance. There are no anchors at the top so you'll need some gear for the belay. |
By R. White Mar 16, 2004
| Anyone know what the variation to the left near the top goes at? I believe that the Vogel guide has it at 10a but it felt more like 10c to me. |
By Steve Powell From: Alhambra, California Dec 10, 2004 rating: 5.9+
| I climbed this on 12/09/04. Haven't been climbing a whole lot, but thought the crux to be a little harder than just 5.9. A very nice route. Definitely will be back. |
By Locker From: Westminster, CO Dec 10, 2004 rating: 5.9+
| I tend to agree with 510b4me on the rating. But 5.9/5.9+ whatever depending/ It is a fun as hell, friction plus zero hold Jtree special. There are anchors on top that can be used now to bring up your second. Hopefull they will not be chopped by some SOB thinking he/she is God of the rock. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Feb 21, 2006 rating: 5.9
| Led this route many many years ago, sans the belay bolts at the top. Fun face route, good for the rating of 5.9 |
By Bo Johnston Feb 22, 2006 rating: 5.9 PG13
| Fun route and a little spicy after the second bolt. What is the nice looking bolted route about 5 feet to the right of it. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Apr 15, 2006 rating: 5.9
| BPJ, the bolted route to the right of this is Swing Low, 5.7....see description. |
By Rodger Raubach Sep 8, 2010 rating: 5.9 PG13
| A decent climb on good rock. Worthwhile doing on a rest day. Only "two star" to me... Trickier than it looks. |
By Donno From: Newport Beach Oct 8, 2012
| "Worthwhile on a rest day": hilarious. Lead this when you're well rested and have a handful of recent 5.9 slabs under your belt. Sustained and runout on top. |
By edehaven May 6, 2013 rating: 5.9
| For sure a fun and worthwhile route to add to a tick list. Not sure about it being spicy or having no holds at all, as that as far as Jtree friction is concerned it has perfect tiny edges and little bulges everwhere you need them and the bolts are right around each crux making it a great route to test your friction limits without paying a big price. If I am in the area its a route I never miss and always smile after. Try Swing low right next to it or WAC on the next buldge left to make it a 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 circuit of jtree slab |
By Wael Jun 13, 2013 rating: 5.9
| The Route Is great and has superb friction! Not many holds but who needs any when you have such great rock! |
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