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R & D 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 5,096
Submitted By: Tom Bath on Oct 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the way we did the upper pitches of R & D ...

Annual Raptor Closure at Bridge Creek Wall area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route starts 100+ feet above the road on the left side of the crag. Follow a slab/corner 15ft to a short chimney and traverse right around a large block to the 1st belay. Follow blocky terrain with fun moves mixed in towards the chimney to the right of an obvious arching crack (Cocaine Crack) splitting the smooth face on the left. Head up the chimmey to a large ledge below several short seep cracks the rightmost of which is the easiest. Above here follow slabs and low angle cracks to the top.
Descent: Follow cairns up and to the left before heading into the descent gully.

Protection 

Gear to 3".


Photos of R & D Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Down the R&D Chimney
Looking Down the R&D Chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting started on the final pitch, 5.6.
Getting started on the final pitch, 5.6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Party coming up to the top of the third pitch.
Party coming up to the top of the third pitch.

Comments on R & D Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Aug 22, 2011

Fun, easy to protect. Nice way to get pretty far above the canyon road!
By PhillR
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Almost 90% of the route feels really easy (5.4-5.5), just a few 5.6 moves. Great for a beginning multi-pitch leader.
By jeb013
From: Portland
Aug 19, 2013

For the decent there are now rap rings at the top that take you to the ledge above cocaine crack. Another anchor will take you to a ledge and then into the decent gully (this anchor does not have rings, you will need to bring sling/rap ring). This saves a lot of effort on the walk off.
By Fossman
May 19, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun and easy! Great route for beginning trad leaders.
By Ben Stabley
From: Portland, OR
Dec 10, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route! We did Cocaine Connection to start, and in sum got a nice mix of slab, chimney, and crack climbing. Takes protection very well. Walk down from the top was really no problem.
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
Apr 23, 2016

fun little ROADSIDE climb. Great for building confidence as a new trad leader. I only gave it two stars because it lacks exposure, the whole time I hardly felt like I left the ground.
By Casabrow
From: Seattle, WA
May 1, 2016

If you're looking to jump past classes going up, I'd advise not hitting up the old rusted bolts on the slab up and left of Cocaine Connection and downhill of R&D's official start. Bypassing those and moving up a large, body-sized groove to the trees and the route will get you on a wandery path.

It's all probably 5.6 with barely a touch of route-finding. Keep shooting for the path of least resistance while making for the left of the two chimneys.

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