The biggest challenge may be finding this rock. From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the right side of the South face.
This is the left of a pair of more bolted, slab routes. Moderate climbing using smears and edges up past 6 bolts which appear to be 5/16". Pleasant, though fairly runout for a 5.6 leader.
Rap 160 feet.
QDs 6, slings for your anchor.
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 25, 2013
May have missed something, but the "anchor" at the top of this climb is just one (albeit big and new) bolt. Not wanting to belay or rap off a single bolt, I went to the top and belayed off a tiny bush and a good stance. This took every inch of my 60 meter rope, and the walk-off was hell. Also, some of the rock on this route is that crumbly South Platte kitty litter.
Otherwise, fun moderate slab!
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
Despite the lowly grade, I declined to lead this one, as the start has an absolutely lethal landing before you can reach the first clip at about 25' - a big crevasse filled with evil leg-breaking blocks.
Reaching the start involves clambering over and under huge blocks, some of which seem to be made of granite breadcrumbs - a touch Alpine. The whole crag seems little used as there is not much in the way of an approach trail.
|By rob bauer|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2014
Alec must have missed the classic 3 1/4" bolts-in-a-line anchor that services both this (and the X rated Unhead). After the last bolt, this classic anchor is a fair bit to the left in a scallop.
Rob, since I seem to own this climb, based on ticks, I'll offer the advice that I start all three of these right-most climbs off the big, crumbly, within-20-degree flat boulder at the base. I traverse in left to right so I've got the slab mojo going by the time I hit that first bolt. FWIW, the first move is always hard on slab, it gets easier as you go. (It would be a nasty fall.)
I'd also add that it's smart to bring some extra webbing in case the anchor needs replacement; it doesn't get climbed that much.