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Honeymooner's Area
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Quinsana Plus 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Doug Reed, 1990
Page Views: 3,669
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Doug Fischer on Quinsana Plus, 5.13a.

Description 

Start by climbing up the slab past the first 2 bolts to reach the overhang. At the overhang, traverse all the way to the left side to clip the 3rd bolt and get a shake out. From here, climb straight up on positive holds to reach a rail, clip the 4th bolt and traverse back right. Climb up, a bit left on small but positive holds to make a big reach to a positive hold and clip the 5th bolt. From here, traverse left, clip the 6th bolt and head up and left for a good shake. Traverse up and right, making another reach to a positive hold and clip the 7th bolt. The business now begins. Work your way up to reach a shallow 1-2 finger pocket and make a quick reach up and right. Clip the 8th bolt, utilize a very small crimp and stick a positive hold up and right. Mantle up to the anchors to finish. This route is sustained and can be tweaky on the fingers.


Location 

From the Honeymooner's ladder, head downstream around the first corner. Look for the obvious overhanging orange to the left of a large boulder.


Protection 

8 bolts, shuts.



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By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Nov 1, 2010

This oft-climbed New River classic thwarts many a hardman with it's reachy and bouldery crux near the top of the route. Its stellar climbing is only surpassed possibly by the overall aesthetics of the route. To stand back and gaze at this line is to truly appreciate one of the most beautiful routes the New has to offer. Movement may include heal hooks, hand foot matches, a distictive mono-pocket, slaps, slopers, crimps, screams, and blood.