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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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variation to Mail Ridge 
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Quiet Desperation 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp
Page Views: 736
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Scott leading Quiet Desperation.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another heady climb by Alec Sharp. Good climbing to a cool corner. The crux is gaining the corner and the climbing eases the higher you climb.

My main reason for posting this route is posting a picture I took of Derek Hersey leading the route in 1984.


Location 

Start right of Sidewall.


Protection 

RPs, mid-size stoppers, small to medium cams and I remember a #2.5 Friend being somewhat crucial. I have done the route a couple of times the last being in 1984.



Photos of Quiet Desperation Slideshow Add Photo
Getting a good rest after all the work of placing the crux gear. <br /> <br />The corner on the right, with one piece of gear in the bottom, is "Human Factor" (11d).
Getting a good rest after all the work of placing ...
Scott going dynamic "Quiet Desperation".
Scott going dynamic "Quiet Desperation".
Comments on Quiet Desperation Add Comment
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By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Aug 21, 2008

Bob, is this the hanging corner just above Sidewall, right before its crux or does Quiet Desperation have an independent start to the right of Sidewall? I guess what I'm trying to ask is do you have to climb the first 20 ft or so of Sidewall to gain Quiet?

Thanks!

By Chris Archer
Aug 22, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

Rob, it's an independent line R of Sidewall with better protection than Sidewall's first pitch.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Aug 22, 2008

Thanks Chris, I was up there again this morning scoping it out, and I can see a way to gain the corner just to the right of Sidewall. It looks really sketchy with poor rock though. I would most likely hang a rope from above to TR it before leading it. I would hate to have a hold rip off trying to onsight it. It also looks really dirty up there, no one has probably been on it in quite a while.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Aug 23, 2008

After looking thru the guide again I realized that the route I have been looking at is called "Wild Side" immediately right of the second pitch of Sidewall. I was confusing this with Quiet Desperation, since the topo for that area is really vague in the guide.

By Scott Bennett
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

A very good route, another fun pitch in the Sidewall "hangout". Despite its dirty and lichen-ous appearance, it actually climbs pretty cleanly and the rock is very good.

This route is actually quite safe, given some patience and creativity. There are a few good pieces in the crack/slot at the lip of the roof, but getting them in can be pretty strenuous. Our strategy was to lead on double ropes (we folded over our single rope) and place a good cam in the base of the "Human Factor" dihedral. This protected the multiple forays up to the lip of the roof to scout and place the crux gear. After maybe a half-dozen up and down climbs, I had 2 good pieces to protect the crux sequence, which involved some fun dynamic reaches on big holds and a bit of tricky footwork.

Once in the corner, the climbing is easier, but still pumpy. You'll have to decide for yourself whether to use the mini tree as a jug (heck yeah, this is trad climbing!). There are a few slots for bigger cams (green-yellow camalot) in the corner, so don't leave them on the ground.

Overall, this is a high quality and safe pitch for the Eldo 5.11 climber. Big props to Alec Sharp for all his rad FAs, as well as his killer route names!

-Scott

By CJC
Jun 25, 2009

"My main reason for posting this route is posting a picture I took of Derek Hersey leading the route in 1984."

Where is the pic?