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 ADVANCED
Annadonia Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annadonia S 
Campinini S 
Cardiac Standstill S,TR 
Cinq Jour D'Affille S 
Cookie Crumble S 
Cool for Cats S,TR 
Danger High Boltage S,TR 
Dirty Corner S 
ESP S 
Femme Fatale S,TR 
Freebase T,TR 
Future, The S 
Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars S,TR 
Last Call for Alcohol S 
Looking for Lust S 
Micro Balls S 
Out Of Control S 
Quiet Desperation S,TR 
Rock-a-holics S 
Rude Awakening S 
Shower the People You Love with Bolts S 
Stylin' S 
Too Low For Zero S 
Vertical Willies TR 
Year of the Ankle S 

Quiet Desperation 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 1,084
Submitted By: randy baum on Jun 7, 2006

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Description 

Quiet Desperation climbs a faint arete located thirty feet to the right of Femme Fatale and twenty feet to the left of Stylin/Out of Control/Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars.

Quiet is, ahem, a desperate, little bugger. The route gets going on the first move, a big throw off a good right hand crimp and an ok left hang crimp/pinch to either a two-finger pocket or a crimp. This move is easier for tall folks. From the pocket, a tenuous move deposits the climber at a rest on a nice edge. Getting to the next rest, two huecos, requires lots of tension and precision. This is the physical crux of the route. After resting at the huecos, tricky moves lead to the last bolt, which is a little farther away than most would like. This is the redpoint/mental crux. From the last bolt, it's Red Wing sand jugs to the top. With desperate moves down though and some tenuous cruxing up high, crisp temps are extremely helpful for sending this rig.


Protection 

bolts



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By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Sep 22, 2009

I believe that this climb has been done clean by less than 5 people (I only know of Jeff E, Chris H, and Joel A).

By AntVicino
Oct 24, 2009

Tyler Hoffart sent this the other day, so that list got a bit bigger.

By ferrells
Jul 11, 2010

I know all you sinewy badasses like this route, but it's pretty tough for me to get psyched up for it. Painful crimps! I managed all the moves but one on an attempt in maybe 2006, and it was brutal. It's not terribly sustained, but I thought the crux moves could constitute the crux of a 13a.
Maybe I'll try to do them openhanded when I head back - it'll be harder, but at least it won't hurt as much.

By KurtH
6 days ago
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This route is surprisingly awesome. Very unique movement throughout the climb. It should see tons more traffic!