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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
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Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
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Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
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Quicksand 
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Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Quicksand 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
FA: D. Hare & S. Woodruff, 1978
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 12, 2003
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Description 

This description is for the route as we did it. The existing information is somewhat ambiguous and it was not absolutely determinate how [far] we were to follow existing pitches (particularly on P2 of Ignominity) so we jumped off route as soon as possible to create a more [independent] line, or one AT LEAST as [independent] as intended.

This climb is a 1* or 2* climb, depending on how you look at it. It certainly has 2* sections, Is that enough to make the climb 2*, or do the 1* sections make it just 1*??? I guess 1.5* is good.

To find this climb, hike up the West Ridge to the Base of Long John Wall, and then just a shave further to the base of Ignominity.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Ignominity (5.7), and continue up onto the second pitch for perhaps 15' (5.8) before taversing right below the first roof. This deviation goes around a bulge to the right and onto a slab, which is climbed DOWN and to the right to a shallow corner (5.10a). You will probably belay here due to drag. The belay is on #3 and #3.5 Camalot, + a few TCUs and/or a tricams.

P2: Climb up in a light colored crack that has a little resident chalk. This crack is shallow & a little flaky in spots, but it protects OK with a 1.5" or 2" cam. Continue up a very steep face as the crack disappears (5.10b). Pass a rotten band on some sidepulls (the gear is poor here, so don't fall (5.10a) and then step left to get a few SOLID nuts in a horizontal. Continue up the system of cracks for about 80' total to the ledge below Long John Wall's 3rd pitch.

P3: Climb up the "inset" (stemming) of the 3rd pitch of LJW for perhaps 15 feet (5.6) until the inset disappears and you can see a flake with a 2" crack to your right. Step right onto this flake and jog upward and right on it (5.4?) before it terminates at a tiny left facing corner below a bulge. Go onto the corner and then left into a slot below the bulge. [Protect] overhead and climb the right hand of two crack through the bulge, using the one on the left as you please. This will bring you into a 5-foot wide "inset" with a crack on each side (left = thin fingers to seams, right = thin hands to wide fingers). Stemming this section is as nice as anything on LJW and is a great alternate pitch (5.9). Continue up on this to a broken ledge, being mindful not to drop rocks on your partner from the ledge. You will see a fixed rap station overhead, with blue webbing and one each, quicklink and rap ring. This is on a tree [which] is rooted behind a frightening looking flake. It is probably best to avoid this (death) rap. Big cams can be used to set a nice belay up and right of the top-out point, although you can find here and there placements for about anything.

P4 as we did it was not [previously] documented and had no recognizable signs of prior passage. It may be a First Ascent- if it is, we will call it "Quick Silver" but this is not known. If anyone has previously done this, please contact me with names and dates.

P4: "Quicksilver" (5.9+) Here is where you get to use the big gear if you brought it. From the ledge previously mentioned, below the [death]-rap-station, climb up to the right and towards a 4-6" crack though the roof at a right-facing dihedral/overhang. There is a Death block teetering here, but it can be easily avoided. It looks to be about ~ 4' x 3' x 1' it is perhaps 8 [cubic] feet due to it's non-square shape, I figure this would weigh about 2000lbs. The point is, that it WILL KILL OR MAIM SOMEONE if you knock it off. So don't. [Stem] up past the flake and to the roof/crack. You can protect the roof at the base with a #3 Camalot or 3.5" piece in a narrow spot (solid gear) and then stem higher and get in a solid 3.5"-4" cam. Protect, then pull up and left to the corner and over the roof (5.9+). During this crux, a #4 Camalot is optional, but the last [piece] is at your knees anyway. Continue up on easy hand-to-fist cracks protecting with 3" gear, if you saved any (5.5) and up to a ledge and to the top of the ridge, now 20' right of the top of LJW. Belay after slinging a [huge] boulder, or walk the ridge to the "slot" above LJW and belay as per that climb.

Descend as per LJW.


Protection 

A good sized rack with A set of nuts, and cams from small TCU to 3.5" A double of #3.5 camalot or a #4 camalot is optional for the [extended] finish we did.



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