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Quickdraw 

Quickdraw 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kai Hirvonen June 2002
Season: Fall, Summer, Spring
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 22, 2007
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Brad leading the second pitch of Quickdraw. As th...

Description 

A long, bolted arete that leads to The Terrace. A fine approach to Blazing-Saddles if Borderline is taken.

P1 - 5.10c (45m) Starts just left of Phillistine Groove (the dirty looking corner system) on the forested ledge the leads to the start of Borderline. The first section is up steep and broken rock and the bolts are plainly visible from the approach trail. Pull through the steep rock (5.9+) and onto a long, low angled arete. Balancy, well protected climbing (5.10c) leads to a bolted anchor

P2 - 5.11a (15m) - Cruxy climbing through two bolts right above the belay. I ended up pulling into the groove for 10 feet and then back out onto the face for the last bolt. After clipping the last bolt, more hard moves on the face lead to the anchor. You could stay out on the face, but there weren't any bolts and it seemed natural to step right.


Location 

Starts on the ledge below the Terrace (about 50 feet right of the start of Borderline)

Descent - Rap the route with one rope via two rappels. These anchors are the common descent from the Terrace, so expect company on busy days.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Quickdraw Slideshow Add Photo
Brad following the second pitch of Quickdraw.
Brad following the second pitch of Quickdraw.
Brad almost done Quickdraw.  The combination of body english, arete pinching and smearing required by this route is evident.
Brad almost done Quickdraw. The combination of bo...
The last moves of Quickdraw.  The long distance between the third and fourth bolts makes moving to the crack even more tempting.
The last moves of Quickdraw. The long distance be...
Comments on Quickdraw Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 25, 2008

The guidebook describes this route as contrived, and as Andy mentions, it's too tempting to move into the crack for at least a short stretch. It looks like a bolt above the current third bolt must have been removed, although I didn't search for any evidence.

We used the crack too, although afterwards I tried the moves avoiding the crack and found them entirely doable and at a similar difficulty to the rest of the route. If the crack wasn't there, and these moves were mandatory, it would have to be considered a fine route and tough for the grade, but the crack is there, and especially with a bolt apparently missing, that's where most people will end up.

The crack, in its entirety, is the route Philistine Groove (5.11a). It's not entirely clear from the guidebook, but it seems possible that the section you move into at the third bolt on Quickdraw is the 11a part of Philistine Groove. I'd have to do the entire route to be sure.