|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Kai Hirvonen June 2002|
|Season:||Fall, Summer, Spring|
|Submitted By:||Andy Laakmann on Aug 22, 2007|
|Comments on Quickdraw||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 25, 2008
The guidebook describes this route as contrived, and as Andy mentions, it's too tempting to move into the crack for at least a short stretch. It looks like a bolt above the current third bolt must have been removed, although I didn't search for any evidence.
We used the crack too, although afterwards I tried the moves avoiding the crack and found them entirely doable and at a similar difficulty to the rest of the route. If the crack wasn't there, and these moves were mandatory, it would have to be considered a fine route and tough for the grade, but the crack is there, and especially with a bolt apparently missing, that's where most people will end up.
The crack, in its entirety, is the route Philistine Groove (5.11a). It's not entirely clear from the guidebook, but it seems possible that the section you move into at the third bolt on Quickdraw is the 11a part of Philistine Groove. I'd have to do the entire route to be sure.
Apr 11, 2016
|Easy to link both pitches with a 70m (60m would probably also work). A reasonable alternative to get up to Blazing Saddles if Borderline is crowded or you want to do some sport climbing instead. Second pitch you can do from the face and only use the crack for an extra piece of pro to help out the follower.|