Eds. This entry was originally submitted under Lion's Den with a different spelling. 4 days later it was submitted under Mindless Cliff. The 2 entries are combined.
1st submission: this is a fun, fun, finger crack. It is runout and a tad loose near the top. From the last good stance before things get steep, you can cut left to another crack, that I found easier to place gear in, though still 5.9, and then traversing slightly right to join the main route for the last 8-10 feet of Boulder Canyon-type knobs, flakes, scoops. The main crack has killer moves too, though on TR I was immensely enjoying the moves, to have had to stop and place gear.... You gotta flow through the section to climb it. The age old question is gear or go. It is an easy TR, there is a big tree, and there is a scary set of slings around mini-tree to be avoided at all costs. There is an easy walk around left side. When you park at the Lion's Den, maybe twenty yards west of the mine, take improbable 3rd/4th class ramps up and left, not fun. You might be able to see the bolts on the face or the distinct crack from the pullout. It is about 100 vertical feet above the road? There is a fabulous 5.10b sport climb to the left, bring a couple small/ medium nuts maybe for the top if you don't like to run it out a little, though you can go left into 5.5 v-slot. Straight up isn't too bad, 5.7 maybe.
2nd submission: this was the original line on the cliff. It follows an obvious, if somewhat irregular, crack up middle of the slab. Climb up this crack with both face holds and jams. There is a lower and an upper crux. The difficulties ease quickly after the second crux. The lack of visitors leaves some of this feeling a bit scruffy with lichen. Find an anchor at a tree.
Eds. apparently a bolt anchor has been added.
Descend to the left or rappel.
Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot, lots of finger gear, used a small tricam up high that was bomber, the only piece that would fit, and the last piece I got in before sending the last 8-10 feet.
2 wires, blue Alien, # 1 1/2 to a #2 1/2 Friend, slings for the tree anchor.
Clearing the opening bulge.
Looking at the final bulge.
BETA PHOTO: A close view of the upper part of the crack.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 13, 2003
Greg Hartman and I did this climb on 6/12/03. It has a great start and is skinny throughout most of the climb. A fun lead climb that is perfect if you don't have a lot of time to climb. Take small nuts and cams and enjoy this more remote Boulder Canyon climb. I agree with the one star rating.
|By David Hodges|
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun climb, however, I don't think the PG13 rating is needed. I never felt close to run out, no you can't place pro above your head on every move but it's never below your feet. Crappy approach, good climb worth doing if you're in the area.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jul 31, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This route has an obvious bolt anchor, so there is no need to anchor to a tree as described in the description.