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Quetico Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,946
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Leading Quetico Crack!

Description 

Another popular route. Follow the chimney and large flake system to the top. Some of the holds can a bit hard to find, adding to the fun a bit. Often done as a top rope but leadable with large gear.
  • RCM&W #48, p.214.

Location 

The crack is located about half way between Bluebells and Superior Crack.

Protection 

Larger gear #2-#5 camalots, and some big bros. Standard top rope setup.


Photos of Quetico Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Quetico Crack!
Leading Quetico Crack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Evan on a smooth and impressive lead of this excel...
Evan on a smooth and impressive lead of this excel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Half way point.
Half way point.
Rock Climbing Photo: The small lower corner takes a little thinking.
The small lower corner takes a little thinking.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean Sonnabend topping out on Quetico Crack. Thank...
Sean Sonnabend topping out on Quetico Crack. Thank...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean Sonnabend near the base of Quetico Crack. Loo...
Sean Sonnabend near the base of Quetico Crack. Loo...

Comments on Quetico Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sonnabend
From: West Saint Paul, MN
May 17, 2010

This is a great route to do on top rope, would also be a fun lead if you have big enough gear. Lots of interesting moves on this route, it can be as difficult or as easy as you want it to be depending on how you approach it. Lots of fun.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To make this a pretty safe lead you would want to have a #2 for your first piece. Then 2x #4 C4 for your second and third pieces and then place a #5 and walk it up to the pillar thing. Sling the base of the pillar with a long sling (I used a 120cm sling and an alpine drawn). After slinging the pillar, grab your #5 and place it above the pillar and walk it up for a little bit. Then walk a #6 the last 20 feet of easy climbing to the top.

Don't actually place a cam behind the pillar, I don't know how solid it is but, it's definitely good enough to sling the base of it.

If you feel okay about walking a couple cams then go lead this!! It's such a great route!

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