Questions and Answers 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Andy Petefish, et. al. |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Seymour on Oct 28, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Beta.
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Description This is one of the best climbs in the canyon. It is steep, sustained, and has excellent exposure.
Pitch 1: 5.8, 120 feet. Start with a short lie back in a right-facing corner and gain good hands in the chimney. Continue up double cracks in the chimney with great jamming until you can exit right to a large ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10, 150 feet. To the right of the belay is a beautiful, smooth wall with double thin cracks leading up to a roof. Traverse out onto the face and climb the twin cracks, great climbing and jamming, protects well with small wires and cams. Reach the roof and traverse right utilizing an excellent, horizontal, hand crack, passing a useless bolt at your feet (stepping on it is cheating). Pull around the roof to an optional belay. Continue up the crack above that leads to a right-facing corner and belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 3: 5.10, 150 feet. Climb the excellent crack up the dihedral in smooth dike rock, ring locks through hands. Gain a stance below a roof in the gray rock and pass it with hands. Continue to the top and belay.
Descend to the right down the gully with two double rope raps from chockstones. Or down Doppelgänger which is 60 feet up canyon from the top out of Questions and Answers at a prow, below a large dead pinyon pine.
Location This is one of the furthest routes to the right on Upper Mother's Buttress. Scramble a short distance up the drainage between Middle and Upper Mother's until you see a short, right-facing dihedral leading into a chimney with double hand cracks in the back.
Protection Double set of cams to hands, and nuts.
Panorama of pitch 1.
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Hanging Chad on P1.
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Looking up P2.
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BETA PHOTO: This is pitch #2....so good.
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Rob enjoying it up.
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| Comments on Questions and Answers |
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By Jesse Bernier
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c
| This is by far one of the best routes in Unaweep Canyon. A must do to realize that Unaweep isn't complete choss. Long, sustained, and exposed on great rock. After today you can rap safely down the gully with one 60 meter rope. There are now good slings on the giant chock that you used to pass on the second rappel. 3 60 meter raps. |
By John Peterson
Apr 26, 2009
| The first pitch is the best 5.8 I've done in Unaweep. The anchor at the top is good and it's easy to get back down. A 70 reaches the ground from the ledge. We used some bigger camalots (a #4 and #5) - not required but makes it easier to protect. An excellent pitch for a 5.8 leader. |
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 6, 2010
| There is a slightly harder variation to the first pitch. Climb original line for 20 feet than step right on the sloping ledge and climb up the slightly broken rock to a bolt and ledge. Then Climb the right dihedral and come up on the right side of the belay ledge. |
By Ralph Swansen
From: Grand Junction, CO
Mar 12, 2013
rating: 5.10+
| Great route!
Very sustained and pumpy.
First pitch is a solid 5.8+.
Second is the crux, approaching 10b/c, my second favorite pitch of the climb.
Third is the money pitch 10 a/b.
Just awesome. |
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