Quest for Balance
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Combine this with Monodoigt & Thinner and your tips may tingle. Find this climb on the W side of the Hand behind a tree perhaps 150 feet downhill from Monodoigt. The tree close to the route provides shade for most of the route.
Pull onto the overhanging rock with jugs. Contortion or a backstem to the tree leads up to smaller edges on a flake. Pull-up on better holds slightly to the R of the bolts. There is a fingertip bucket near the second bolt best utilized with the R hand. There is a high L step midheight with small edges for the tips. Crimp with some power to near the 5th bolt for a crux pinching a small pebble R.
You can avoid the first overhang and first bolt with a scramble L and stem out onto the face.
5 QDs plus something for the 2 bolt anchor
By Doug Redosh
May 29, 2003
Can be TR'ed by easy though exposed downclimbing over the summit of the Hand, from the Hand/Finger col ("Webspace"?), to the 2 bolt anchors at the top of the climb, just over the edge. One can belay from the Hand summit.Good crimpy climbing, but I thought harder than Monodoigt, 11c, (more power required?)
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
A great route with an appropriate name. The route has good holds, but it always seems a struggle to get established on them, and not for reach, but for balance. After a hard start with a bolt at your waist, clip 4 more bolts passing various sub-cruxes that all seem easy, once you figure them out. The rock is solid and the climbing fun. Just a shave short of 4 stars.