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 ADVANCED
The Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Slacks S 
Back in Yaks T,TR 
Cardboard Cowboy S 
East Face/Hand T 
Father on Fire T,S 
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 
New Saigon S 
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 
Power Bulge S 
Quest for Balance S,TR 
Rock Atrocity S 

Quest for Balance 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D. Crawford & J. Lesuer
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Quest for Balance?

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  • Description 

    Combine this with Monodoigt & Thinner and your tips may tingle. Find this climb on the West side of the Hand behind a tree perhaps 150 feet downhill from Monodoigt. The tree close to the route provides shade for most of the route.

    Pull onto the overhanging rock with jugs. Contort or a backstem to the tree leads up to smaller edges on a flake. Pull-up on better holds slightly to the right of the bolts. There is a fingertip bucket near the second bolt best utilized with the R hand. There is a high left step mid-height with small edges for the tips. Crimp with some power to near the 5th bolt for a crux pinching a small pebble right.

    You can avoid the first overhang and first bolt with a scramble left and stem out onto the face.

    Protection 

    5 QDs plus something for the 2 bolt anchor


    Comments on Quest for Balance Add Comment
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    By Doug Redosh
    May 29, 2003

    Can be TR'ed by easy though exposed downclimbing over the summit of the Hand, from the Hand/Finger col ("Webspace"?), to the 2 bolt anchors at the top of the climb, just over the edge. One can belay from the Hand summit.Good crimpy climbing, but I thought harder than Monodoigt, 11c, (more power required?)
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 3, 2007
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    A great route with an appropriate name. The route has good holds, but it always seems a struggle to get established on them, and not for reach, but for balance. After a hard start with a bolt at your waist, clip 4 more bolts passing various sub-cruxes that all seem easy, once you figure them out. The rock is solid and the climbing fun. Just a shave short of 4 stars.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 2, 2015
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Very nice pitch of technical, devious face climbing. No chalk on it when I went up the first time and felt like 11+ onsight. After working out the moves, it felt pretty good at 11b going up the second time. Kind of hard to find but worth the effort if you're in the area.
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