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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Queso Cabeza 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D'Antonio, Ranck, 1992
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 2001
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Queso Cabeza, Penitente Canyon. Crisp edges and s...


Thirty ft. right of Persephone and around the corner is a sweeping line that approaches dead vertical near the half way point. Clean stone with excellent edge and shallow pockets can be found initially, and this is followed by more superb edge climbing up to a horrizontal seam. Crimp to the anchors and the technical crux, but get some good chill below the seam since it will be the last rest. The seam provides very little by way of rest, and the crux is still above. Good stone, excellent pro, and technical crimping kick up another very worthy line in this sector.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.

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By Anonymous Coward
May 7, 2003

This is a good route!!! The crux in my opinion is clipping the last bolt, including getting to the right hand crimp used to clip it. Another overlooked route in Penitente means really gritty rock - so don't expect to grease off the holds. I overlooked this route for 10 years until last weekend. Very fun. -JMM