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The Cleo Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndoor T,TR 
Better When Dry T,TR 
Between the Queens TR 
Big Roof TR 
Colostomy T,TR 
Curved Wall T,TR 
Face right of Barndoor Project? TR 
Hang Dog T 
Jack of Spades T,TR 
King's Throne T,TR 
King's Valet, The T,TR 
Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mum T,TR 
Missing Link T 
Pinko T,TR 
Plank, The TR 
Queen's Face T,TR 
Queen's Throne T,TR 
Queens Clam, The T 
Throne Room T,TR 
Tilted Tower T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 

Queen's Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,910
Submitted By: Matt Wolski on May 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Pat leading


This is a nice route to do after leading the Queen's Throne (which is an easy and really fun 5.4). Lead up the Queen's Throne. Use some webbing to anchor yourself around the spire at the top. Topside belay your second and have him clean the pitch. Then dump a #7 cam in one of the big cracks by the belay stance. There are some smaller cracks closer to the edge that should take a #4 cam. Use the webbing around the spire for your bomber anchor and equalize the two cams for a backup. I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to set up this top rope, but this worked well for me. Throw your rope over the edge that faces the lake, rap off, and you're all set to climb.

Queen's Face is a wake up call at 5.8 after Queen's Throune at 5.4...but that's a good thing. Climb the two parallel flared cracks that go almost all the way to the top. Expect very thin, balancy foot holds. The crux is pretty close to the ground, around the fourth or fifth move. There is a real positive rest hold about half way up. After that, shoot for the top.

You could probably lead this, but like I said, the crux is awful close to the ground and it's really easy to set up a top rope. It's up to you. Overall, a real nice route. It's worth doing a couple of laps on it.


Standard top-rope gear. Some webbing for sure(a thirty-footer would be nice). I also used a #7 and a #4 cam.

Photos of Queen's Face Slideshow Add Photo
Pat leading again
Pat leading again
photo by Carter Stritch
photo by Carter Stritch
Throne Room (38), Queen's Throne (41), Between the Queen's (42), and Queen's Face  (43)
BETA PHOTO: Throne Room (38), Queen's Throne (41), Between the...
Andy leading Queen's Face
Andy leading Queen's Face
Queens Face goes up the middle of the face.
BETA PHOTO: Queens Face goes up the middle of the face.
This is most likely the most interesting and exciting lead I have ever seen.   My climbing partner Franck  lead it using some C3's and ball nuts.
BETA PHOTO: This is most likely the most interesting and excit...
Burt leads Queens Face
Burt leads Queens Face
Queen's Face
BETA PHOTO: Queen's Face
Making the crux moves low on the face.
Making the crux moves low on the face.
photo by Carter Stritch
photo by Carter Stritch
Comments on Queen's Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By silkyhorse
From: Appleton, WI
Sep 17, 2006

A group of us did this climb (or variations of it) on Sept 16, 2006. It was a lot of fun! The beginner climbers tended to start on the far right side, traverse over to the left about half-way up to get to a large ledge on the left side. Then, we worked our way back to the right side to get to the top.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great route. Super sequency and smooth. A joy to climb!

By Brian Runnells
Jul 28, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Leading this isn't too bad. Lots of thin moves to bigger holds where you can mess around trying to find a crack big enough to put a piece into. You do have to be careful on the opening moves before you get any gear in as falling onto the pointed rock at the base wouldn't feel nice. Bring mostly small pieces though as I didn't use anything larger than a #1 C3 (although I could have missed something).

By Patrick Bodien
From: WI
Jun 8, 2009

bomber, gold, dmm offset at 10 ft protects the crux well. the rest has very good small pro if you search.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good, exciting lead. The gear is definitely not obvious and very tiny. A bomber green C3 in a horizontal about 3/4's of the way up protects the upper moves nicely and then another good horizontal protects the finish.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What was your first piece? I looked at this a couple weeks ago and I found a spot for a offset mastercam (blue one I think) and it was still a little sketch. Nice lead!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My first pieces were a manky nut and a 00 C3 equalized about 10 feet off the deck. These pieces were not really that great but above those I got a decent #1 C3 and then a .75 Camalot in a flaring spot and then run out until a 0 C3 towards the top. Extra spicy.

By Adam.IA.climber
From: IA
Jul 23, 2011

Not ready for a lead on this one but TR was just as fun as most of the other climbs I have ever been on down here in IA!

By Tradoholic
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This climb is probably best TR'd. There's pro but it's tricky and I don't think a 5.8 climber would find the moves secure. There are many holds but none to seem to be too bomber until you reach the very top, subsequently that's where the pro gets better too.