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The Queen Scepter
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Queen Scepter 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Steagall, Ken Mills, & Eric Hanson
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: Mike on Dec 1, 2008

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Description 

A nice line up the west face through several roofs & bulges. Start up easier climbing to the first (crux) roof. A couple hard moves gets you to jugs, which continue to the top.

Although the technical crux is short, the overhanging nature of the climb makes for a pumpy route all the way to the top.

Location 

Climb is located on the west face of Queen Scepter. There are 2 bolted lines on the west face; Queen Scepter is the right (south) one.

Protection 

Many bolts (maybe 15?) get you to a bolted anchor. While this route is generally very well protected, the first bolt is a bit high, albeit on easier climbing. An intermittent crack near the bottom lets one tame the initial runout with a medium-ish nut.


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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 8, 2010

DAS and I pulled and knocked off several loose rocks that were nice holds on the first pitch and the crux truly perplexing when sketched out. It's a fantastic looking route, though -- trick is getting through the first roof and if there's any beta on this please share. Neither one of us figured out the sequence.
By Eddie Brown
From: Tempe, Arizona
Dec 11, 2010

How do you get to the base of this climb? Last season we couldn't find a way to get there without some hella sketchy fourth class....
By climnron
Dec 12, 2010

A couple of seasons ago I put a cairn at the start of the trail. I put it up high enough to keep it from getting washed away in seasonal run off, but if it was heavy . . .? Basically head up a ramp like feature after ascending a small ridge. You do have to do a small scramble and then traverse near the top. Super easy if you find the right way. The trail is pretty defined, but typical with Arizona you might find the correct one on the way down rather than up on the first trip.
By Cwaters
From: Avondale AZ
Feb 17, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I hiked up there today with a friend and we were looking at doing this route in the near future. Any good beta on it? Does any one know if the 12.a tops out?
By Cwaters
From: Avondale AZ
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ok, so I finally had some time to get out and do this thing.

The Beta for the first roof/lip:

After you have pulled into the lip there is a pretty good 3 finger dish/pocket on the right side and a micro crimp out to the left. Use the dish to stabelize your self and then go left hand to the crimp. The crimp is at the start of a 4 footish long sloping rail and you need to cross right hand over left and then traverse the sloping rail until the end get a heel hook the the crimp and pull right hand up to an amzing jug!

Second lip is easy, just stand up and you will find some nice holds and the bolt.

Third roof/lip is full of loose rocks but there are plenty of cracks and jugs to get through it.

We used a 70M rope and it got us to the top but we brought up a 60M as well and left it on the first set of anchors so we could repell down.

Hope this helps.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 30, 2011

Cool, can't wait to give this is a shot! Thanks.

Best approach, by the way is going upstream of the formation in the dry creek bed and then scrambling up a slab to scree-filled gulley. Not much of a trail, but there's evidence of some use. Good morning time there now, but not for much longer!