Queen of the Heartbreaks
||Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Shaddow Ayala|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||you can lower with an 80m rope if you use the belay below the first bolt.|
|Page Views: ||2,670|
|Submitted By: ||shadow.ayala on Jul 24, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: the dihedrals
Scramble up to the ledge just below 'Sheila'. Use the belay bolt to protect the easy moves to the first bolt and deal with immediate arete cruxyness at the second bolt. Once you grab the jugs clip the third bolt and pull into the dihedral. Stem your way up the fun dihedral until it runs dry. When you get to the roof, pull around left and onto the face. Touch 'Sheila' for a brief moment and then head right. Climb forever on the amazing face using incredible little crimper jugs. After climbing 125ft. the holds vanish and your options become limited. Clip the last bolt and float through the heartbreaker of a finish. This climb is center stage and classic! I can't believe it wasn't climbed sooner.
To the right of 'Sheila' and to the left of 'Eclipsed'.
chain anchors w/fixe steel biners
-use two ropes to get off or an 80m.
Nearing the crux at the end
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 30, 2010
Thanks to Shadow for putting up this amazing route. Overall, I was surprised at how moderate it was. There are some 5.11 moves, but most of the long face is closer to 5.10. This is a great line and a lot of fun. One of my favorites now in Pine Creek for its length and endless technical face.
By Krista m
Jun 25, 2011
good route. worth bringing 2 ropes to climb.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2011
Lots of fun! Use an 80m rope or have the 2nd tag the line. 2 ropes weight for the top crux sucks.