Queen Mountain Rock Climbing
Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree NP
Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers
(5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre
(5.10d), White Rain
(5.11a), The Bloodline
(5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).
There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
78 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Queen Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Queen Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Queen Mountain:
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
White Rain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Upper Walt's Rocks
White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book. The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
The road into Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.
Coyotes are hard to see. Photo by Blitzo.
Wash and Frontier Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...
Crags near the summit. Photo by Blitzo.
A random tower on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley. Photo ...
Climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain. Phot...
San Gorgonio from Queen Valley. Photo by Blitzo.
Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by B...
Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Moun...
The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain. Pho...
one of the many varnished formations on the descen...
Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo...
Frontier Wall and Spire. Photo by Blitzo.
Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain. Photo b...
Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks. Photo by Bli...
Coyote tracks in a wash. Photo by Blitzo.
Cirque of the Climbables. Photo by Blitzo.
Boulders near Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
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