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Cactus Slump, The
Cirque of the Climbables
Shark Fin, The
Spy Tower Corridor
Stone Flower Tower
Throne Of The Matriarch
Tower of Power
Watcha Call It Pillar
Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).
There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.
78 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Queen Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70' Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
White Rain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Upper Walt's Rocks
White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book. The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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