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Queen Mountain

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41-Minute Dome 
Cactus Slump, The 
Cirque of the Climbables  
Dreamscape Dome 
Frontier Spires 
Frontier Wall 
Kachina Walls 
Kate's Crag 
Olympic Dome 
Pearls, The 
Rim Rock 
Shark Fin, The 
Spy Tower 
Spy Tower Corridor 
Squirrel Rock 
Stone Flower Tower 
Throne Of The Matriarch 
Top Block 
Tower of Power 
Walt's Rocks 
Watcha Call It Pillar 

Queen Mountain 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,200'
Location: 34.0481, -116.1021 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,178
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
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Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.

Description 

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).


Getting There 

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.


78 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',26],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',38],['5.11',20],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
At Your Pleasure   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Perfect Fingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks
Escape to Queen Mountain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Squirrel Rock
Where Were You?   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Red Sonja   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Throne Of The Matriarch
Icon   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Olympic Dome
Treasure of the Sierra Madre   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
Mojave Queen   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Crack Queen   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
White Rain   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Upper Mojave   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Black Diamond   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Olympic Dome
The Bloodline   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Olympic Dome
Browse More Classics in Queen Mountain

Featured Route For Queen Mountain
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Black Diamond 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Olympic Dome
This route is located on the southeastern side of Olympic Dome. It heads directly up the featured, but overhanging face to the left of Icon. Class 3 scrambling takes you up to the base atop a large boulder.Arguably "R" rated, it is reasonably well protected, but has a couple no blow it parts on easier ground. The technical crux of this route is getting past the first bolt, but the real crux of the climb is the fact that it just doesn't relent. Slightly overhanging for its entire 80+ feet, there ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Queen Mountain
Photos of Queen Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
The road into Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The road into Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.
Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.
Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.
Coyotes are hard to see. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Coyotes are hard to see.
Photo by Blitzo.
Wash and Frontier Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Wash and Frontier Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking area. Doesn't look like much until you get up there. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...
Crags near the summit. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Crags near the summit.
Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain
Queen Mountain
A random tower on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
A random tower on Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.
A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley.
Photo ...
Climbing on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing on Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.
Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain.
Phot...
San Gorgonio from Queen Valley. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
San Gorgonio from Queen Valley.
Photo by Blitzo.
Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain.
Photo by B...
Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Mountain.
Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Moun...
The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo
The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain.
Pho...
one of the many varnished formations on the descent
one of the many varnished formations on the descen...
Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo...
Frontier Wall and Spire. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Frontier Wall and Spire.
Photo by Blitzo.
Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain.
Photo b...
Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks.
Photo by Bli...
Coyote tracks in a wash. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Coyote tracks in a wash.
Photo by Blitzo.
Cirque of the Climbables. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Cirque of the Climbables.
Photo by Blitzo.
Boulders near Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Boulders near Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds over Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds over Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.
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