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Queen Mountain

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41-Minute Dome 
Cactus Slump, The 
Cirque of the Climbables  
Dreamscape Dome 
Frontier Spires 
Frontier Wall 
Kachina Walls 
Kate's Crag 
Olympic Dome 
Pearls, The 
Rim Rock 
Shark Fin, The 
Spy Tower 
Spy Tower Corridor 
Squirrel Rock 
Stone Flower Tower 
Throne Of The Matriarch 
Top Block 
Tower of Power 
Walt's Rocks 
Watcha Call It Pillar 

Queen Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,200'
Location: 34.0481, -116.1021 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,699
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
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Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).

Getting There 

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

78 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',38],['5.11',20],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Queen Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Queen Mountain:
At Your Pleasure   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Perfect Fingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks
Escape to Queen Mountain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Squirrel Rock
Red Sonja   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Throne Of The Matriarch
Icon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Olympic Dome
Treasure of the Sierra Madre   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
White Rain   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Crack Queen   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Upper Mojave   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Mojave Queen   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Black Diamond   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Olympic Dome
The Bloodline   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Olympic Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Queen Mountain

Featured Route For Queen Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on perfect fingers

Perfect Fingers 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lower Walt's Rocks
Thin crack start first 40 ft (thin cams,nuts) opens to perfect fingers then hands in a slot, a few layback moves to the top. Two cruxes, one in the beginning (thin and balancy) another one in the slot/flare near the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Queen Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Moun...
Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Moun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coyotes are hard to see. Photo by Blitzo.
Coyotes are hard to see. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The road into Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
The road into Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crags near the summit. Photo by Blitzo.
Crags near the summit. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley. Photo ...
A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley. Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wash and Frontier Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Wash and Frontier Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain. Pho...
The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain. Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by B...
Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by B...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain. Phot...
Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: A random tower on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
A random tower on Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.
Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.
Rock Climbing Photo: Queen Mountain
Queen Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo...
Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain. Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the many varnished formations on the descen...
one of the many varnished formations on the descen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain. Photo b...
Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain. Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Frontier Wall and Spire. Photo by Blitzo.
Frontier Wall and Spire. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coyote tracks in a wash. Photo by Blitzo.
Coyote tracks in a wash. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks. Photo by Bli...
Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks. Photo by Bli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulders near Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Boulders near Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cirque of the Climbables. Photo by Blitzo.
Cirque of the Climbables. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: San Gorgonio from Queen Valley. Photo by Blitzo.
San Gorgonio from Queen Valley. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clouds over Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds over Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.

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