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Queen Mountain
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41-Minute Dome 
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Cirque of the Climbables  
Dreamscape Dome 
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Pearls, The 
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Spy Tower 
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Watcha Call It Pillar 

Queen Mountain 


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Elevation: 5,200'
Lat, Long: 34.0481, -116.1021 Map
Page Views: 42,766. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004

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Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...

Description 

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).


Getting There 

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
At Your Pleasure   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Perfect Fingers   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks
Escape to Queen Mountain   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   Squirrel Rock
Red Sonja   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Throne Of The Matriarch
Broken China   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   Rim Rock
Spiritworld   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Dreamscape Dome
Icon   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Olympic Dome
Treasure of the Sierra Madre   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
1995 Budget Closure   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Jamaican Bobsled   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Olympic Dome
Upper Mojave   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Rites of Passage   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Frontier Wall
White Rain   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Mojave Queen   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Crack Queen   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Pearl Drops   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Pearls
Pearl Necklace   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Pearls
Drag Queen   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Black Diamond   5.12a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Olympic Dome
The Bloodline   5.12a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Olympic Dome
Browse More Classics in Queen Mountain

Featured Route For Queen Mountain
Bobby P. copping a lieback on the Mojave Queen crack below the bolted face.  <br /> <br />The chalked holds on the varnished face to the right are part of the route <a href='/v/white-rain/105724537'>White Rain</a> (5.11a).

Mojave Queen 5.11a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Upper Walt's Rocks
This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Queen Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
The road into Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

The road into Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.

Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.

Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree. <br />

Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.


A random tower on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

A random tower on Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Climbing on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Climbing on Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain.
Phot...


Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain.
Photo by B...


The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo

The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain.
Pho...


Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo...


Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Yuccas, barrel, basalt and Queen Mountain.
Photo b...


Coyote tracks in a wash. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Coyote tracks in a wash.
Photo by Blitzo.


Boulders near Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Boulders near Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


San Gorgonio from Queen Valley. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

San Gorgonio from Queen Valley.
Photo by Blitzo.


Coyotes are hard to see. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Coyotes are hard to see.
Photo by Blitzo.


Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Mountain.

Rhesa Ashbacher on a climb somewhere on Queen Moun...

Queen Mountain

Queen Mountain

one of the many varnished formations on the descent

one of the many varnished formations on the descen...

Wash and Frontier Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Wash and Frontier Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.


Frontier Wall and Spire. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Frontier Wall and Spire.
Photo by Blitzo.


A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

A down joshua tree with snow, Queen Valley.
Photo ...


Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Golden Nugget and Upper Walt's Rocks.
Photo by Bli...


Crags near the summit. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Crags near the summit.
Photo by Blitzo.


Cirque of the Climbables. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Cirque of the Climbables.
Photo by Blitzo.


Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Clouds over Queen Mountain. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Clouds over Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.