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DescriptionQueen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c). Getting ThereThere's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
At Your Pleasure 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Perfect Fingers 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks
Escape to Queen Mountain 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Squirrel Rock
Red Sonja 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Throne Of The Matriarch
Broken China 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Rim Rock
Spiritworld 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Dreamscape Dome
Icon 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Olympic Dome
Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
1995 Budget Closure 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Jamaican Bobsled 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Olympic Dome
Upper Mojave 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Rites of Passage 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Frontier Wall
White Rain 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Mojave Queen 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Crack Queen 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Pearl Drops 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Pearls
Pearl Necklace 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Pearls
Drag Queen 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Walt's Rocks : Upper Walt's Rocks
Black Diamond 5.12a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Olympic Dome
The Bloodline 5.12a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Olympic Dome
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
Mojave Queen 5.11a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Upper Walt's Rocks
This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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