Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
Queen Anne's head is the small though prominent pinnacle which juts out of the maze of rock on the south side of the Third Flatiron near the Royal Arch Trail. It can be recognized by its very overhanging west face and a colorful red and yellow wall on its north side.
Queen Anne's Head can be approached both from above and below. To reach this pinnacle, take the Royal Arch Trail from the Bluebell Shelter above Chatauqua Park. 5-10 minutes up the trail you'll cross a streambed that runs during the spring before the trail radically steepens. Just before you hit this crossing cut up and right on a faint climber's trail to reach the very toe of the 3rd Flatiron. Scramble left (west) into 1911 gully, the fern-choked gully below the 3rd's long, slabby south face. Queen Anne's Head will be up and left (south) and can be accessed via a series of ramps.
Go left and down on the Southern slab of Queen Anne's Head, perhaps 100' down from the standard East Face Route. Arrive at almost to the lowest point of this and step on to the rock and left up to the arete, avoiding some dirty rock and detritus at the very bottom of the South Arete. Climb the slab and arete on the right side to the top of a ridge and continue on that for a ways. Near the top of that ridge, one must step down into and across a 20' deep chimney (which taken through the rock le...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
We followed this approach this morning, and I think it is easier if you stay on the Royal Arch Trail longer, at least until after it crosses the stream. If you scramble to the base of the 1911 gully, you will have to go back down to reach the start of the standard east face route on Queen Anne's Head. This area is steep and home to much poison ivy, the shortest line approach from the Royal Arch Trail is probably best!
How to get there: First, decide that this rock looks like a great place to enjoy a day out with some less than experienced good friends (4 total). It's multipitch but not so many as to make you worry about running out of daylight; access seems easy enough. Bit of a hike, a few bits of poison ivy, but nothing difficult. And easy enough to relax and help your friends. Second, print out the directions from Mountain Project, and a trail map from Rock Climbing Colorado figuring most of these guys are good, even George Bell, well-experienced in the area, chimed in, so if there are any big worries, he would've mentioned it. Third, start hiking, go right past the sign that says "Access Trail to 2nd/3rd Flatirons" because you figure that can't be the way. If it was the poster wouldn't have put "take the FAINT trail to right past the possibly dry stream" (note, THAT stream, not the other half dozen that look the same) the original poster would've said "Take that obviously well maintained trail with a big sign that says "Access Trail to 2nd/3rd Flatirons". Fourth, make your friends climb up and down the steep trail next to Queen Anne's Head, with the painful gully in between, looking for a some place that is not completely covered in poison ivy. Make sure to attempt a few crossings to be denied by the ivy, further discouraging the two girls, who have expressed they don't even want to try the crossing. Fifth, meet a couple of rangers that can't remember the way across either. Explore a bit south of the steepness, and determine there's just a somewhat loose boulderfield to cross after scrambling up the hill. After thoroughly wearing out the two girls, send them happily on their way (with their share of the gear of course) back to the car and to Pearl Street for cheeseburgers and beer. Sixth, energized from moving as a group of two, and your friend who's fine scrambing, scramble up the slope and head across the field of fist-sized loose rocks that seem to have it in for your Teva exposed toes. Reach the side of a really big rock in front of you... you look down and see nothing but a sloppy steep (though only about 20 feet deep) gully filled with poison ivy, and see no real way to avoid it. So, you think maybe it is possible just a small rock to get around (because you of course have never been to the 3rd) and skirt underneath the 3rd to Queen Anne's head. So, you head up and around only to find out the rock is definitely a part of the Third. You find a nice platform with other climbers taking off halfway up the Third.............refusing to feel dejected the two of you will declare that Queen Anne's Head is nothing but a figment of the imagination, that it doesn't really exist, and there is no way to get to it even if it did exist. And of course notice the nicely blazed and obvious trail leading to the Third couldn't possible be the faint trail. You drop your rope and start cruising up the third happy with thoughts that this was your plan all along.