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*Quebec Ice Climbing  
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Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean 

Quebec  


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Location: 46.3469, -73.6523 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 157,736
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc on Apr 15, 2008
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Cap trinité as seen on the boat aproach.

Many public cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME or ACC MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A huge area boasting a great diversity of climbing styles, rock types, and commitment levels, on both rock and ice. The "French" culture adds to the exotic nature of a climbing trip here.

Quebec is a great place to get away, Climbing has been an institution in this province since the 40s. You'll be amazed at the quantity, quality and potential of routes. Mountainproject only lists a tiny fragment of the existing climbs, stay tuned, more gets added every weeks.

Popular areas on MountainProject that need a bit of love (route additions) from the community:
Baldy
Mont Orford (Pic aux Corbeaux)
Tranchant
Paroi du Lac Castor
Kanata
Montagne d'Argent
Val-David
Les Grand Jardins
Val Belair
Saguenay Lac Saint Jean

Getting There 

Drive or fly. Major carriers go to Montreal and Quebec City.

Access and Clubs 

Many cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME
Climbers on the protected sites need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership ($55)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade ($30)
-Or purchasing a $10 day pass online on $15 at the site if an administrator is present.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

All of these now include disability and emergency transport.

www.fqme.qc.ca

The FQME also has under its umbrella multiple regional clubs which are listed under each areas.

The Alpine Club of Canada also has a few sections in the province.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

814 Total Routes

['4 Stars',101],['3 Stars',233],['2 Stars',154],['1 Star',73],['Bomb',15]
['<=5.6',75],['5.7',50],['5.8',78],['5.9',83],['5.10',190],['5.11',142],['5.12',89],['5.13',21],['>=5.14',5],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Quebec:
L'Ogresse (Le Jedi)   WI5+     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Mastigouche : Mastigouche - North ampithe...
Hocus Pocus   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   L'Amphitheatre : 02 - Les nouveaux mariés
Camay   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Estrie - Eastern Townships ... : Mont Pinacle
Bonsaï   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   L'Amphitheatre : 03 - Bonsai
M&M   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 76'   Montagne d'Argent : M&M
40 foot Smurf   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Mont Rigaud : Main Wall
Cassonade   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   L'Amphitheatre : 03 - Bonsai
La Crack du plombier   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Lac Gervais : Multi-pitch area
Sceptre   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Mont-King : Imperiale
Le Joyau de jade   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Lac Gervais : Right side
Interruption   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Julien-Labedan : Labedan - Right
Bastard   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Mont-King : Staircase
Tintin au Tibet   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   L'Amphitheatre : 04 - Prestation
Smeg Head   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR   Mont Rigaud : STD Wall
Aéro-Tango   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   Central Area : 7 Aéro-Tango
Momentum   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Riviere... : Acropole des Draveurs
Ochra   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   L'Aiguille : L'Aiguille
Sidewinder   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Mont Rigaud : Main Wall
Trident   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Julien-Labedan : Labedan - Right
Sausages   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Gatineau Park : Twin Ribs, Down Under
Browse More Classics in Quebec

Featured Route For Quebec
just an aesthetic picture from the top of the first pitch. (no bolted anchors)

l'Amphithéâtre 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Amphitheatre
1. Cross slab (little to no pro) and mantle up ledge on the left end. follow ledge to the right and climb up the thin cracks to a mantle on the next ledge.2. Climb up to a small roof/corner with a crack in the back, sloping ledge to the right, get up on ledge (crux) and traverse right to sloping ledge with a big crack.3. traverse right to corner (exposed) and (Variation) keep traversing right to last vertical crack and head up over a ledge to the top of the cliff....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Quebec Slideshow Add Photo
This seems weirdly appropriate for this page....
This seems weirdly appropriate for this page....
La Fin Du Monde. Try it! <br />Photo by Blitzo.
La Fin Du Monde. Try it!
Photo by Blitzo.
Moby dick 5.11-
Moby dick 5.11-
Quebec
BETA PHOTO: Quebec

Comments on Quebec Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
Aug 9, 2012
Climbing areas:

Côte-Nord
-Baie St-Pancrase
-Fer a Cheval
-Jonction
-Mistassini
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 14, 2013
Quebec is a province with unbelievable climbing potential that is not even close to being realized yet. I would say probably it is only 25% of its potential for new routes if that. People need to start coming up here and see for themselves.

Viva la Quebec!
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Apr 11, 2014
I just want to add to that list: Val-David.

I hope to add some routes from there to here this summer.
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal
Apr 11, 2014
Already there under the Laurentians:
mountainproject.com/v/val-davi...

Any additions are welcomed!
The list is for areas which are not yet created
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 19, 2014
montrealpoutine.com/index.html