Type: | Trad |
FA: | [Roger Briggs and Kristina Solheim, 1973] |
Page Views: | 1,673 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | George Bell on Nov 10, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This exciting route follows the SE ridge of the Eastern Ironing Board. You can begin the climb at the very base of this ridge, just above the bottom of Bluebell Canyon, this adds 2 or 3 poorly protected pitches to what I describe. The standard start is to hike up along the base of the East Face for several hundred feet, until reaching the second of two wide cracks/gullys. Left of the point where this crack intersects the main ridge there is a subsidiary summit, the most significant one along the lower half of the ridge.
Begin up a slab left of the wide crack/gully. Climb up the slab (some scary unprotected 5.7). On the second pitch, you can head left to the ridge crest and go over the subsidiary summit, or (easier) traverse right, crossing the crack/gully and then on up to the ridge crest reaching it after the subsidiary summit.
Either way, the climb now follows the ridge crest. You will find a bolt and fixed stopper at the top of the route "Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love", and then you can belay at a good bolt before where the crest steepens. The next 40' is the crux and is totally unprotected. Consider that this route translates (roughly) "How Scratchy" in Spanish.
An alternate way to do the crux section (not necessarily any better protected) is to traverse 20' north to another bolt (this bolt may be on the route "Smooth"), and then head straight up to the crest (5.7 s). In either case, after the crux, you will come to the bolted anchor at the top of Velvet Elvis, you can belay here or continue another 140' to a notch, where you will find a 2 bolt anchor on the other side for a 60' rap W to the ground. A 60m rope barely makes it from the bolt below the crux to the top belay. In fact, with a 60m rope we were able to do this entire route in 3 pitches, but they were all full pitches.
Begin up a slab left of the wide crack/gully. Climb up the slab (some scary unprotected 5.7). On the second pitch, you can head left to the ridge crest and go over the subsidiary summit, or (easier) traverse right, crossing the crack/gully and then on up to the ridge crest reaching it after the subsidiary summit.
Either way, the climb now follows the ridge crest. You will find a bolt and fixed stopper at the top of the route "Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love", and then you can belay at a good bolt before where the crest steepens. The next 40' is the crux and is totally unprotected. Consider that this route translates (roughly) "How Scratchy" in Spanish.
An alternate way to do the crux section (not necessarily any better protected) is to traverse 20' north to another bolt (this bolt may be on the route "Smooth"), and then head straight up to the crest (5.7 s). In either case, after the crux, you will come to the bolted anchor at the top of Velvet Elvis, you can belay here or continue another 140' to a notch, where you will find a 2 bolt anchor on the other side for a 60' rap W to the ground. A 60m rope barely makes it from the bolt below the crux to the top belay. In fact, with a 60m rope we were able to do this entire route in 3 pitches, but they were all full pitches.
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