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Stepping Stones
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Contortionist's Pleasure 
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Pinche Guey 
Québec Connection 
Stepping Stones 
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Québec Connection 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bruno Haché, Tomas Ryan
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer AM, late PM
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Bruno Hache on Aug 17, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The dihedral from top to bottom.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun, overhanging dihedral. The crux is at the first bolt with a long reach to a small, slopy crimp, but it is sustained until above the second bolt. Interesting stemming moves and body tension are required for a successful ascent. Nice big holds from the second bolt to the top anchor.


Location 

Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This wall is Stepping Stones. Find the first dihedral on "somewhat" better rock; you can't miss it.


Protection 

This is a mixed route, three bolts and 3-4 gear placements plus the 2 bolts top anchor. It requires 3-4 cams from the gray Camalot to the blue Camalot. The first bolt was added after the FA due to a potential fall on a ledge at the crux.

Special thanks to Pebby Johns for her help when adding the first bolt.



Photos of Québec Connection Slideshow Add Photo
Bruno at the crux during the FA.
Bruno at the crux during the FA.
The route from underneath before the first bolt was addded.
BETA PHOTO: The route from underneath before the first bolt wa...
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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 25, 2008

Nice mixed route. It's still a bit dirty at the top. You only need a couple of pieces of gear on easy trad until the first bolt, and then the rest of the climb is protected by bolts. I didn't do the crux move as shown in the picture; I moved left into the corner, turning my right hand from a Gaston into a push move to gain the undercling on the left. I felt the moves were more like 5.10. Interesting moves requiring good foot placement. I stayed under the flake at the top and clipped from the left side of it, but I suppose you might be able to jam in the crack above the flake.