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DescriptionAlso known as Baldy Point. Winter spot sees shade only early in the morning and then sees sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at it's best. The locals are a very friendly tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmers wheatfield". So please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and the locals can do all their own bolting, but they might need help and I am not sure exactly who would clear such activity. Getting ThereFrom Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables. GuidebookOklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2010 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Quote from Mark Herndon"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better." taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug RobinsonThe rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible." The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Quartz Mountain:
Snakes Head 5.5 X Trad, 150 feet Snakes Head / S Wall
South Pacific 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet South America
Three Bolt 5.7 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Atlantic
Who's Got the Juice 5.7 Sport, TR, 50 feet Sea of Screams
South Africa 5.7 Trad South America
The Hobbit 5.7 Trad, 200 feet Sea of Screams
Snakes Head Dihedral 5.8 R Trad, 2 pitches Snakes Head / S Wall
Bourbon Street 5.8 PG13 Trad, 150 feet Snakes Head / S Wall
Accidents Will Happen 5.9 Sport, TR, 50 feet Sea of Screams
S-Wall 5.9 R Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet Snakes Head / S Wall
Amazon Woman 5.10a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet South America
Silent Scream 5.10b X Sport Sea of Screams
Jet Stream 5.10b R Sport Sea of Screams
Snow White 5.10b R Trad Sea of Screams
Stray Cats 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Stray Cats Wall
Last of the Good Guys 5.10b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet Headwall
Crusin' for a Bruisin 5.10d Sport, TR, 50 feet Sea of Screams
Super Slide 5.10d Sport, TR, 50 feet Sea of Screams
Moose Head 5.11 R Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Snakes Head / S Wall
Wild Child 5.11d Trad Headwall
Featured Route For Quartz Mountain
Snakes Head 5.5 X OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
About as Traditional as it gets. About 100' left of S-Wall, from an alcove climb up a crack up to the big face and top out....[more] Browse More Classics in OK
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