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Quartz Mountain 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006

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View from the parking lot during the Fall Gatherin...

Description 

Also known as Baldy Point. Winter spot sees shade only early in the morning and then sees sun almost all day long. World class granite will test your friction skills and the bold routes will test your nerve. RX climbing at it's best. The locals are a very friendly tight knit community who all seem to share a kinship with the "rock in the farmers wheatfield". So please be sure to pack out all your trash, avoid impacting any sensitive areas, and leave your hammer-n-nails or your drills at home. All the climbing is clean and the locals can do all their own bolting, but they might need help and I am not sure exactly who would clear such activity.


Getting There 

From Altus, OK, drive north on 283/6 about 20 miles till you intersect with 44 where you will take a right. 4-5 miles until you will see a left turn for Quartz Mountain on 44a which you take for about 3 miles staying to the left until you cross a small creek with a wellhouse on the right (this dirt road will take you straight over to the base but is rough and can be muddy) which you pass up looking for the next paved right. The sign here has been removed due to the repave job as of Fall 2007. Taking this paved road north a mile take another right which is still clearly marked, over to the wall and park in the lot next to the picnic tables.


Guidebook 

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2010 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY


Quote from Mark Herndon 

"I've been to the Valley, Yosemite, but the face climbing at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma is much better."


taken from Oklahoma Rock - written by Doug Robinson 

The rock at Quartz had been a pleasant surprise, but the climbs were downright unbelievable, bold to a standard seldom seen elsewhere. They bespoke committed vision backed solidly by technique--the boys had learned a lot since the days of leather belts and moldy ropes--and seemingly unshakable mind control. Scanning the guidebook, I could see many such routes designated by an "xx" after the rating. The definition was chilling: "xx means a ground fall is very possible."

Read the full story here at the WMCC site


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Quartz Mountain:
Snakes Head   5.5 X     Trad, 150 feet   Snakes Head / S Wall
South Pacific   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet   South America
Three Bolt   5.7 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   Atlantic
Who's Got the Juice   5.7     Sport, TR, 50 feet   Sea of Screams
South Africa   5.7     Trad   South America
The Hobbit   5.7     Trad, 200 feet   Sea of Screams
Snakes Head Dihedral   5.8 R     Trad, 2 pitches   Snakes Head / S Wall
Bourbon Street   5.8 PG13     Trad, 150 feet   Snakes Head / S Wall
Accidents Will Happen   5.9     Sport, TR, 50 feet   Sea of Screams
S-Wall   5.9 R     Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet   Snakes Head / S Wall
Amazon Woman   5.10a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   South America
Silent Scream   5.10b X     Sport   Sea of Screams
Jet Stream   5.10b R     Sport   Sea of Screams
Snow White   5.10b R     Trad   Sea of Screams
Stray Cats   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Stray Cats Wall
Last of the Good Guys   5.10b/c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   Headwall
Crusin' for a Bruisin   5.10d     Sport, TR, 50 feet   Sea of Screams
Super Slide   5.10d     Sport, TR, 50 feet   Sea of Screams
Moose Head   5.11 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Snakes Head / S Wall
Wild Child   5.11d     Trad   Headwall
Browse More Classics in Quartz Mountain

Featured Route For Quartz Mountain
Seven soloists on Snake's Head (5.5X).

Snakes Head 5.5 X  OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
About as Traditional as it gets. About 100' left of S-Wall, from an alcove climb up a crack up to the big face and top out....[more]   Browse More Classics in OK


Photos of Quartz Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
View from the parking lot - note the Snake's Head on the left.

View from the parking lot - note the Snake's Head ...

Matt King on Moose head <br /> <br />Photo: Ryan Ray

Matt King on Moose head

Photo: Ryan Ray