The Fourth Dinamo area is home to some splitter (as well as some not-so-splitter) basalt cragging that would be classic 1-2 pitch stuff in yosemite valley.
It's mostly trad climbing, with some bolted routes and some bolted variations. Most anchors and rappels are fat bolted stations, and most things were set up to rap with a single rope. One small note: a number of the splitter cracks I played with here had wide sections, so it's worth lugging the big metal up the hill if you have it lying around.
Beta on the area, like most things in Mexico, is a little touch and go. You can often find lists of the routes on sites like Xpmexico.com, but there is little beta to help you match up the cliffs with the paper.
The beta here should give you a solid reference point (and a couple lines for the ticklist). Other climbers will be an excellent resource, and sometimes you may find names of routes inscribed below the line, etc. Within 30 yards of the two routes I added (hormigas, marlon brando) are a handful of other splitter 5.8-5.11 climbs, both short and multipitch, and im told there is more good stuff close by if you wander further.
From the park entrance road, continue driving up canyon past many pullouts, stops, etc. Eventually the road turns into a bad dirt road (easily passable with 2WD) and after just 30 seconds on this park in the unpaved lot on your right. There is currently a sign for the Quarto Dinamo here, and a warning not to go climbing without the necessary gear. Expect to pay 10-15 pesos to park.
From the parking lot, walk up the road for five minutes, past a creek, until the road takes a sharp turn left. Instead of following the road, go right here at the hairpin and find a well beaten approach trail that soon rises rapidly into the thick scrub. Initially, follow the best looking trail at any intersections. After a few minutes, the trail passes next to a large pine whose trunk splits into an obvious three-pronged trunk system above. Just after this landmark is a tricky trail split at a smaller tree. Follow the obvious trail directly up for a denser dustier experience, or get on the main trail that initially wasn't obvious to me: step back down at that smaller tree and appear to contour on trail until it also rises steeply to the crags. This trail pops out near the base of some good crack climbing. 10-20 minutes from the car.
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Las Hormigas is a sick line in a nest of basalt splitters. Start with a few yards of twin hand cracks, then choose left or right at a fin maybe 30' off the ground. Left looks hard, I stepped right to follow hand cracks (initially behind a thin flake) up and over a block to a great ledge. The first pitch ends here, technically, but links easily to the second with a 60m rope, particularly if you manage your rope well at this transition. There are bolts and rings inconveniently above the ledge, pre...[more] Browse More Classics in International