BETA PHOTO: Sketch of Quarry Park (from Climbing Guidelines ha...
Quarry Park & Nature Preserve is an old quarry in Stearns County near St. Cloud. It contains about 17 "routes" that are between 20-30 feet tall. It is a Stearns County Park and has its own guidelines for climbing which can be found on their website at www.co.stearns.mn.us/1450.htm#Rock
Registration is required to climb and there is a fee to use the park. Quarry park also has some swimming holes which are fun when the weather gets too hot to climb.
From St. Cloud, take State Highway 23 west to 10th Ave. S in Waite Park. Take 10th Ave South to 7th St South. Turn West onto 7th St S (becomes Cty Rd 137). The park entrance is 0.7 miles on the south side of the road (watch for signage).
This is a fun craig, climbs are short, but challenging. Some of the ratings may be a bit sandbagged (or old-school, depending on how you look at it...)
One word of warning is that only about 3 of the climbs have anchors, and they are a 2-bolt anchors that are a few feet back from the face on the top granite. There is also no cracks or seems in the granite to place traditional pro for an anchor...
The route on the wall left of the 5.11c (it's 5.8 or 5.9?) has 3 bolts and no anchors. So there is no way to clean your draws, except by anchoring from a tree, which is NOT permitted by the guidelines for the craig.
An alright place if you are in the area for the day. The climb site is behind a bunch of old structures they used in the quarry. The ratings are very under-rated. I tried putting up a 5.8 off the start and it felt more like a .10b towards the top.
There are not many anchors, so bring some trad and a good length of webbing. Very wet area... so lots of mud and bugs.
The routes are pretty short... three bolts or so. Most also have a really hard section (different than a regular crux) and the rest of the climb is pretty simple. Seems to me that they rated these routes based on the average of ratings between each bolt. (One 5.12a section, with two 5.10c sections= a 5.11c route)
Whow, this is amazing I was top rope soloing on a gold line with a prusik all over this area in about 1979. I couldn't beg up a partner in St. Cloud back then. Anyone know if there any other posting for routes in the quarry. I'd like to see what other lines have been done and how they match up with my fading memory.
I was there this past weekend. It looks like there are about 5 bolted anchors and 5 bolted sport climbs. depending on how you use the anchors, you might be able to setup 7-8 top ropes. you need to get a climbing permit when you drive in and carry it with you (I heard about one person getting kicked out when they didn't have a permit). I also received a copy of their climbing guidelines when I went. it seemed relatively wet/muddy when I went so you may benefit from bringing an extra tarp to protect your rope. it costs $3 per vehicle to get into the park.
and.. of course, don't forget to go cliff jumping at the watering hole after you're done climbing for the day!
hey if anyone wants I have the original guide book for the area. my business Camp Shamineau bolted all the lines in 2001 and wrote the guide book for it. just let me know and I'll try to get it on line for whoever wants it. and if not that's fine too.
also If your in to ice climbing we do have an Ice tower you can rent for the day we have most all the gear you need to climb. it's almost ready to go.