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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) 
Aloof Roof 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 
Command Performance 
Do or Dive 
Doan's Pills 
Excellent Adventure 
Finger Love 
High Wire 
Nuclear Crayon 
Quaker State 
Raise Hell 
Shit Hook 
Stab in the Dark 
Step and Fetch 
Wailing Wall 
Zombie Woof 

Quaker State 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Tom McMillan 1978
Page Views: 2,730
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jan 27, 2009
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Stu at the crux.
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Description 

This is the obvious crack feature in the center of the left Amphitheater wall. Great climbing with an exciting crux at the top. The centerpiece of the area and one of the best routes at Moores.


Location 

Amphitheater, left wall.


Protection 

Standard rack. This route can seem run out due to tricky placements. However, there is gear available for every section. Get a creative piece for the roof right off the ground. After the high crux, there is a good placement that is hard to see. Many just run it to the top. Fixed anchor with rings.



Photos of Quaker State Slideshow Add Photo
John Provotero c.a. 1989. Note the existence of beautiful hemlocks that have since been lost to ice and pestilence. photo by PJ
John Provotero c.a. 1989. Note the existence of be...
Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day
Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day
Scott cruises Quaker State.
Scott cruises Quaker State.
Comments on Quaker State Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Aug 30, 2010

It's safe, but really tough to protect well onsight. The possible big whip is safe, though (so i've heard). Awesome route!

By Carolina
From: Farmington, nc
Jul 18, 2011

Steller Climb! Best Climb I have done in NC so far....

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011

Truly classic climb. I have only followed it - the gear looks very tricky. Pretty awesome to watch the pro puzzle be unlocked. An onsight lead would be really impressive.

By Heath Alexander
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Nov 28, 2011

One of the most beautiful lines at Moores. I worked on this off and on all season. Wish I could say I did it ground up, but I top-roped it before I started working on the lead. Be prepared for a moderate runout at the high crux; the gear is solid but well below your feet. I took the fall a few times and it is very safe. Also ended up with a groundfall length runout at the top, but the climbing is easy. I think there may be some gear after the crux, but I was too pumped to stop and place it.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

If you are skilled, and maybe a little creative, with your gear you can do the entire climb without ever having to do a move harder than 5.7 with gear below your feet. You can actually get great overhead gear for the crux if you have some skills with tricams, and another more shallow piece ~3' lower than that. Classic Climb!