Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara 

Great climb. Worth an annual visit. Combines face and crack climbing. Gear - standard rack with cams to a #2 Camalot. Small Loweballs help protect P2 but not a must.

One 60m double-rope rappel will get you from the top of the 3rd pitch to the ground with very little rope to spare. Knot those ends!

excellent rock quality and exposure! I don't know about the last pitch though, rapped from the top of the third as it looked chossy and was going to get dark soon. used a lot more TCU's than I expected.

Link pitch 2 and 3 together. The belay stance in between is kind of crappy.

"Natural belays" = tiny trees. Belay at P1 being the less problematic, and there are places near the dying tree to backup with pro. The second belay is utter shit. Managed a micro stopper and C4 .3 to backup the tiny birch. Under the roof was too wet and awkward to get a good anchor built. Unfortunately doing P2 and 3 together might have resulted in running out of ideal gear and/or draws, but would have skipped the second belay. Protecting the roof sections eats gear for lunch.

I liked P1 and 2 the best because they were what I think of when I set off to climb in the ADKs. P3 reminds me of the Gunks, but after discussion with this page's creator (just happen to climb with him often) he reminded me that to be a true Gunks climb we would have pulled the roofs. lol

The third pitch is definitely the money pitch. That said, the belay for the P3 can be quite awful. We, possibly mistakenly, set up a hanging belay right before the roof section of the third pitch begins. The tree some people probably use as an anchors would never be something I'd trust my life with. It's simply too scrawny.

I'm definitely not a very big fan of overbolting, but I do have to say a set of fixed achors at the top of P! and P2 would be quite amazing and would easily make this a super classic.

It's possible to make solid gear anchors at P1 and P2, it's just not straight-forward. That said, and as I have comment previously...link P2 and P3, you will be happier. Bring doubles if in doubt.
As well, a flake on the forth pitch finally detached this past winter. Be aware as your work left above the bolted belay that there is some loose debris.

If you decide to climb the 4th pitch(do it, it's fun...) be very careful not to knock loose rock down. This pitch is actually quite fun and protects fairly easily.

Personally, I thought that the standard P3(I linked 2 and 3) was harder than P1. Definitely mentally challenging if you're just breaking into leading 5.7 and 5.8. Luckily, jugs are almost always lurking.

Descend carefully. I was able to make 2 rappels with a small section of exposed ledge traversing in between. I think a 70m is necessary due to the last rappel.

Fantastic climb.

Melissa Feldmann works her way around the classic second overhang on P3(5.7) of Quadrophenia, Hurricane Crag, Adirondacks, NY Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Sep 27, 2011

Amazing Climbing! First pitch is a fun warm up for the second pitch which pulls through an awesome roof (crux) then up a corner to a ledge with anchors. I recommend doing the third pitch up to the summit for amazing views on a nice day!

• * ISSUE ** -- Until very recently there was a critical piton at the start of pitch 2. This piton protected the first 5.6 moves from the belay. It is no longer there and there's no gear available (which is why there was a piton). Without this piton the beginning of pitch 2 is currently R.

I would strongly urge that no one attempt to replace the piton. The fixed protection should be replaced in the same manner as was the original. Altering the nature of the pro is altering the climb.

What Mike says is not fact, it's an opinion. Hopefully someone puts something there.

FWIW, I climbed this yesterday and can confirm there is no piton on P2. The moves are definitely R now, as in years past I don't remember feeling it was that scary there! It is possible to climb the face just right of the open book which while also unprotected gains the horizontal ledge above a little more quickly. I found this to be a little more comfortable simply because it wasn't quite as balancy a move (better feet and hands I think). Anyway, a 5.7/5.8 leader might find this very uncomfortable until a piton is replaced. (I agree it should be up to the FAs to decide if a bolt is acceptable)

I have found out that this pin was recently placed as recently as four years ago. Apparently the pin was placed in a rogue style with no consensus and no consultation with the FA parties.
The former pin was not placed during the FA. Don Mellor describes the pitch as having little protection (until the crack is reached).

I for one see no reason to alter the route. For that matter this is rock climbing and climbers see things differently. Fixed gear gets on routes sometimes by accident. Hopefully we can minimize our impact to the ADK and preserve our wondrous resource for our children to enjoy. Thanks for the input.

adirondackrock.com/corrections_2010.htm

They've at least updated Pitch 2 to PG for the next guide printing. Hopefully the word gets out of this change. Just sucks for all those who have older guides and/or people who have climbed the route before that may not hear of the change. Guess that's part of the activity - holds, bolts, and rap stations aren't permanent.

The descent beta, from the top of the cliff, is incorrect. If you top out on Quadraphenia, you only need one 60m rope and you will make three rappels from anchors that are not on the route! see Adirondack Rock for details.

So about this runout on p2... how bad is it?

It's 5.6 if I understand correctly, and you're making face moves until you gain a crack? How far are you going before this crack? Is it 5.6 the whole way?

The runout is brief. Maybe a body length or two? The "issue" if one could even call it that, is that it's right off the belay, so any fall would have the potential to factor 2 the anchor, which is somewhat finicky to build, by the way.

In reality you're much more likely to simply land on the belay ledge. While still not good at all, this is far better than a full factor 2 on to your anchor.

I guess I'd characterize this section as requiring care and a bit of caution, but certainly not as a reason to stay away. Of course YMMV, especially if 5.7 is near your lead limit. Best not to fall off...