This climb is a well-protected, fun Flatirons climb. Start at the left side of the east face and head straight up a left-facing dihedral that forms one side of a shallow gully. Cross over the gully when the pro gets thin and head up the face to a belay stance about 25 feet below the south facing arete that goes to the summit. Tackle the arete, cross a crevice, move out onto the east face and head for the summit.
Variation: From the crevice, head west and corkscrew around the summit block via some cramped moves under an overhang on the west reminiscent of Cozyhang on The Dome.
Descent: Scramble to the northernmost point on the summit and head west to a gully that leads to top of the saddle between Fo amd Fum. From the summit, it looks like a steep downclimb, but it's not. Cross the gully and head up the west side of Fum and through a hole behind Fum's west face. Hike down along the north side of Fum. You can also descend the gully between Fo and Fum, but it supposedly requires some 5.4 downclimbing.
A standard rack--some extra big pieces (#4 Camalot, #11 Hex). Pro is abundant for a Flatiron climb.
John Saccardi comes up the final arete section of ...
Fo peeking through the trees on the approach via B...
|Comments on Quadratic Equation
|By Mike Sofranko|
Aug 21, 2001
I'm not sure about the abundant pro comment. The crux slab off the ground has no pro for about 20 feet. Then, the pro is good until the second crux slab after stepping across the chimney - heading up to the summit.
Divide this route into three pitches. P1 Climb up right across the slab, then head up for a ropelength and belay. P2 head up to the ridge, follow it right to the chimney. We stepped left to the sloping ledge to belay. P3 Go back to the ridge, step across the chimney, work down until you can get back on the east face, and head up to the summit. Watch for some flaky rock. It's apparently less sustained if you head farther right (north) across the slab.
We got by fine with nothing bigger than a 3.5 friend.
|By John Saccardi|
Apr 26, 2005
Tony Bubb led me up this fun little Flatiron climb on 4/23 under beautiful early morning blue skies. From the belay on top of the first pitch, the photo ops are great for both the belayer and the leader on the ridge. The moves between the main block and the summit block were fun, but the leader should take care to give the second some slack. We found a good sling and belay ring in the descent gully that got us back to the base quickly.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2010
Climbed this today, and it was easily done in two pitches using a 60m. Pitch one started at the left edge of the base, on the right side of a gully with good pro. After about 30 feet, I stepped left to follow the pro, and climbed straight up through a lieback crux. After that, I found a belay just below the ridge. The second pitch climbed the top of the ridge, which was surprisingly well-protected to the chasm. Negotiating the chasm was easy but interesting. From there, I stayed left in a crack that took me to the summit. As Flatirons go, this one had very little runnout.