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The Boulderado
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Qs 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Heidi Benton and Fred Knapp, 1995.
Page Views: 3,338
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

Walk a safe but slightly exposing trail down and right around the edge of the main wall and spy the bolt line running up the right side of an airy face. There are chalk lines going up and left of the bolt, but the route line follows the bolts slightly on the right side. The gentle overhang and small but positive holds make this route a lot of fun.


Protection 

6 bolts to 2 new bolts and quick links at the top.



Photos of Qs Slideshow Add Photo
Midway.
Midway.
Qs.  Approach from the left, past other climbs on the Boulderado, or head up directly from the road on the right. <br /> <br />Climb up steep rock past 6 bolts to the anchor.  It's easier if you come in from the left past the first two bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Qs. Approach from the left, past other climbs on ...
BETA PHOTO
Qs.
Qs.
Kurt on Qs.
Kurt on Qs.
Comments on Qs Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 30, 2014
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001

This is a great climb, I really enjoyed leading it.

By Zach Roth
Jun 12, 2001

I loved this route, even though I usually climb hard sport routes, it is fun to climb a route once in a while that is just fun.

By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 8, 2001

While a real fun climb with great holds - I found the old hangers (two of which spin carelessly around the old expansion bolts) a wee bit disconcerting!

By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Sep 25, 2001

A really grat route, although I am not sure why the nostalgic anchors are still in place, those are scary. This route has a SUPERB photo-op on a beautiful sunny day, blue sky behind the arete looking down the canyon around the 4th bolt. A beauty..... Enjoy.

By Joe Collins
Jun 20, 2003

A fun, thoughtful little climb. The "anchor" at the top is shite and in dire need of an upgrade (Fred??... Heidi??). It would be considered a bad anchor in the desert!See the gear alert.

The anchor consists of three rusty quarter inchers, equalized with slings. This would be considered a bad anchor even by obscure desert tower standards. Back things up with small to medium cams if you plan on TRing. For cleaning: best not to lower off the anchor... rap instead.

By Joe Bedford
Aug 9, 2003

8/9/03 Nice climb. I would rate it more of a 5.9 than a 5.9+.

By shad O'Neel
Sep 18, 2003

It's peculiar that whoever put the bolts on this climb left the dubious anchor at the top. The anchor is scary, and it's a shame for such a nice climb. I would replace the anchors if someone loaned me a drill.....send me an email if interested. It would only take a few minutes and would make the route so much more pleasant.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 23, 2003

I climbed this route today and found it to be a top quality route, blemished unfortunately by the sketchy three bolt top anchor. I found the slings currently in use to be too short, putting the rings over the top edge leading to bad rope drag. I'd suggest removing the old top anchors and placing new ones a couple of feet down or using long chains. The final bolt on the route, just below the top anchor is a quarter incher due for replacement as well. Otherwise a real pleasure of a sport route.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Sep 29, 2003

Hey Joe B., how tall are you anyways? This route goes at a solid 5.9+ in my book. The tiny side-pulls and crimpers from the bottom to the third bolt aren't exactly 5.9 material. Granted, after the third bolt the holds are comparatively huge... Either way, great climb to try out. The bolts are nice and close for the crux (the first is even easily skippable). If leaders are TR-ing this one for friends, leave one or two QDs on the route so the second doesn't swing way south after a fall. They'd have to be lowered all the way down to get back on route generally.~Wm

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 14, 2003

Dale Haas and I, with approval from the first acent party, fixed up the anchor on top of this route. We left the original three anchor bolts in place and added two 3/8" Rawl 5-piece (Torque) bolts at the crest of the top of the climb. We addedtwo 3/8" quick links to each bolt for rappelling and lowering.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).Look them up at www.safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support.

A couple of notes on the other bolts on the climb. The final protection bolt has, mistakenly, been called a 1/4" bolt. It is in fact a 3/8" wedge anchor. Also, the three bolts that comprise the old anchor are Rawl "Spike" bolts. It appears that they are 5/16" in diameter.

Happy climbing!

By ac
Oct 15, 2003

Good work Bruce. Are there now 5 bolts at the anchor? Could you have removed the existing bolts and re-drilled the old holes and placed 1/2" bolts? Either way, thanks for the replacement. Are the RAwl (aka Power) bolts you placed stainless steel or plated, and how long 21/4", 3", or 31/2". Do you think it's necessary to place SS bolts in granite? I've heard different opinions on this issue. THANKS AGAIN.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 15, 2003

Not to diminish the importance of the fine work you did by placing 2 bolts at the crest of the top, but why not remove the other three when you were there? I can understand not using the old holes as unsightly slings would still be required to reduce rope drag over the edge but why leave the old bolts that have now been rendered obsolete?

You set a good example of community service for others to follow. Any takers?

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 15, 2003

In response to the comments about the new anchor....

3/8" bolts are absolutely fine for belay/rappel anchors. They have a pull-out strength of over 5000 pounds if properly installed and are not subject to the dynamic loading of a protection bolt.

We left the original bolts in place because some people still belay from the top of a climb, rather than lowering off, and the existing bolts are fine for that. We did not just pull the existing bolts and re-drill because the bolts were too far back from the edge and would have required 2+ feet of chain on each bolt.

By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Oct 20, 2003

Reasonable, small holds on beautiful rock. I climbed the left dihedral until the second bolt, then traversed right about 10' finishing on the more steeply overhung right edge. Maybe my fingers are just weak, but it felt like solid 9+ territory. An easier route was found by sticking in the left edge for another ten feet then traversing over in the middle of the bulge.

If you toprope this one, watch the swing from the left side. It's scary, whipping your rope across the rock (from the admirable, new anchors) and dangling you above the traffic. Exciting to say the least!

By Joseph Proulx
Oct 29, 2003

Like "Smaller Fish" I started to the left of the bolt line, flagrantly ignoring the route description given above and avoiding any "tiny side-pulls and crimpers from the bottom." I'm hardly a confident 5.9 leader (more of a 5.8 leader) and I get pumped pretty fast, but starting to the left made this climb feel very secure, if rather tough.

-Joe

By Frodo
Mar 28, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Awesome climb! This was one of my first climbs that I did during a climbing class offered from C.U. The only problem is that the Boulderado is quite a bit crowded. If you do not mind the population density in the upper end, then I would definitely recommend this climb. Lots of different lines can be taken and makes an awesome top rope for squeamish significant others to try their own skills on. I prefer to take the crack on the left side up the first third and then traverse over to the right to follow the bolt line up. Any way you take though it is an awesome rock!

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 23, 2005

The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top.

Bruce

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 23, 2005

Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor!

By Ryan Malaty
From: Broomfield, CO
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I really liked this climb it was fast and easy and right off the road, definitely a must in Boulder Canyon.

By Goat
From: Boulder
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Wow. I think this might be my new favorite sport route. Start off to the left and trust your fingers.

By Brett B.
Sep 26, 2009

A large flake is getting loose at the very beginning of the route.

By jamandbees
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Was on this in August 2013. There are new anchors at the top, though I recall that one of them allowed for a little spinning.

Fun route. Well chalked, so it's easy to see. About 5.9 following, 5.9+ lead. Totally worth doing if you're in the area.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 2, 2013

I tightened the anchor bolts today.

By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Mar 30, 2014

We had a good time on this one today. Instead of leading from the ground up, I racked up and lead the crappy corner on the left to set up a top rope on this. Uneventful 5.4, but after a cold season in the gym, I wasn't quite ready for the lead. On TR though, the moves were interesting, and I'm glad we made the effort. I'd give it two stars, but I'll hold off on the grade until I can run up it on lead