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By Travis K
Jan 12, 2014
Find your way to the ferry in Sizihwan. There is an MRT station. If you take exit 1 of the MRT then turn left, as soon as you come to the ocean port, take a left to get to the ferry. Take the ferry 5 minutes to the island. When you get off the ferry, head straight ahead across the first major intersection then turn right down a residential road toward the lighthouse (more specific directions to come later).
Here you will come to a sign that says if you go up the hill to the right you will get to the lighthouse and to the left you get to the fort. You want to turn left before you get to that hill. I say DON'T GO UP THE HILL. Instead you want to turn left just before the hill. When you get to the T, turn right and follow this road until you see a small sandy parking lot on your left. THIS IS HEADING TOWARD THE BEACH. When you get to the parking lot by the beach, you will see a tunnel. GO THROUGH THE TUNNEL.
When you get through the tunnel (there will be glow in the dark stars and patterns on the ceiling inside) look to your left immediately once you come out the other side. This is the climbing beach. You will want to hop over the railing and find your way down to the beach either by scrambling or walking out to the jacks ahead. Once on the beach, you will see one fully bolted line on the prow closest to the railing. It's around a 10c or 10d. Far to the right of this (where the rock juts in forming a sort of cave) BEFORE the corner closest to the water, there is an anchor point around 10 meters up the wall (2 bolts). There is also one bolt above that anchor point. To the right about 5 meters of this highest bolt, there is a handle (hole in the rock) with several pieces of webbing tied around it. To the right of THAT WEBBING, there will be more webbing tied around another hole in the rock. And finally where the cliff juts out and forms a corner that meets the ocean, there is a piece of webbing tied around the horn about 10-12 meters up. All this webbing is secure and safe and ready for top roping. It's up to you to find a safe way up to it.
Unfortunately, development here, just like elsewhere in Taiwan, is very contentious. So I'll just say, as of now, development is not allowed here. One final note to be included is that IF YOU CLIMB AT QJJIN, BE READY FOR CROWDS OF CURIOUS ONLOOKERS. You will have many eyes on you so do be an ambassador for the climbing community. ENJOY!