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Black Rain Wall
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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Mike Nevko on Oct 30, 2013

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Description 

This looks to be the old bomb route from the guide book. It now has glues-in to the top anchors. Start beside a pine tree and underneath a Roof. Make a move that requires effort. Be mindful for some loose rock, it has been cleaning up more in the past year.

Old death blocks have been removed.


Location 

Left of Black Rain, starts by pine tree


Protection 

8 Quickdraws + 2 bolt anchor



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By Bill Webster
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Death block was recently removed. The remaining loose block seems to be interlocked.

By hause
From: carrboro, nc
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I believe there are 8 bolts + anchors. Crux is low on this one, then it's an easy cruise.

By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Jan 21, 2014

Thank Bill and Hause, info has been updated.

By Sarah Wolfe
From: Durham, NC
Feb 25, 2014

The climb is more sustained if you stick straight with the bolt line and don't go off right. The difference between this line and the former "bomb" line is that it goes straight up - old line meandered off right towards the top, to get to a nice big sturdy tree, before anchors were there. And the glue-ins are wave bolts with epoxy, which are often even stronger than regular bolts, so don't let that chase you away! Really nice climb with lots of variety.

By Bill Webster
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I went back and removed more of the loose rock. I think I got it all, but still pays to be careful around mid-height.

By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Feb 28, 2014

Thanks Bill, I updated the description to match again.