Login with Facebook
The Sorcerer
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 4,959
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Randy Leavitt on Pyromania (5.13a), The Needles. P...


This is perhaps the most visually stunning line in the Sorcerer/Witch amphitheater. It takes the arching undercling crack on the Fire Wall, which is the chartreuse wall that sits below the Sorcerer itself.

Easily TR'd via two rappels from the top of the Fire Wall, and led rather safely if the first piece is pre-placed (otherwise it requires some serious boldness for the poor landing off the initial boulder problem).

The climb involves two boulder problems: First a long reach or dynamic move. A good rest follows, then a second boulder problem - a lunge off underclings (or undercling and crimp) to a juggy rail. Hand traverse this rail back right (tricky to protect) to another good rest. The final stretch is endurance underclinging. Positive, but pumpy. An amazingly stunning line, and a lot of fun to climb.

The anchor at the lip is generally used for top roping - while it is possible to reach down and clip this anchor after the undercling, it is best to finish the route by following the easy finger crack to the top of the Fire Wall.


Blue TCU's... all of them.

A few wires and RP's are useful as well. I recommend pre-placing/clipping the initial piece to protect from a groundfall. Pre-inspecting the gear on the hand traverse may also be prudent - I used an offset Alien and #2 BallNut.

Photos of Pyromania Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO: Pyromania

Comments on Pyromania Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!