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 ADVANCED
The Sorcerer
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pyromania 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 3,593
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 22, 2008

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Randy Leavitt on Pyromania (5.13a), The Needles. P...

Description 

This is perhaps the most visually stunning line in the Sorcerer/Witch amphitheater. It takes the arching undercling crack on the Fire Wall, which is the chartreuse wall that sits below the Sorcerer itself.

Easily TR'd via two rappels from the top of the Fire Wall, and led rather safely if the first piece is pre-placed (otherwise it requires some serious boldness for the poor landing off the initial boulder problem).

The climb involves two boulder problems: First a long reach or dynamic move for a fingerlock. A good rest follows, then a second boulder problem - a lunge off underclings (or undercling and crimp) to a juggy rail. Hand traverse this rail back right (RP's protect, but best not to fall) to another good rest. The final stretch is endurance underclinging. Positive, but pumpy. An amazingly stunning line, and a lot of fun to climb.


Protection 

Green Aliens and blue TCU's... all of them.

A few wires and RP's are useful as well. I recommend pre-placing/clipping the initial piece to protect from a groundfall. Pre-inspecting the gear on the hand traverse may also be prudent.



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