Pygmy Pony 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dougald MacDonald on Oct 15, 2002 |
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Riding the Pony.
Photo: Roth.
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Description This is a bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the Pony Express area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of Dandi-Line and about 8 feet left of Sister Morphine. Start on Dandi-Line and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a #1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into Dandi-Line, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.
Protection Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.
Near the top.
Photo: Roth.
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.9
| I did this line yesterday not previously knowing anything about it. I think it's better than Dougald and Dave imply. Yeah, I guess it's a bit contrived, but it is big fun for when you're in the area, easily toproped off the SM anchors and a safe lead at the grade (though not for breaking into it). For maximum contrived fun, I recommend the unprotected 20' direct slab approach off the ground (between DL and SM), nice quality, some kinda .10. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| Gear and difficulty are both a bit height-dependent. I'd give it 5.9+.... |
By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| The gear is tricky to place onsight, but it protects well. 9+ lead and maybe 9 on toprope. |
By AOSR
From: Denver
Mar 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| Not so sure about this one. Contrived and awkward climbing. |
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