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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quiet Desperation 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Pygmy Pony 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 689
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 15, 2002
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Riding the Pony.
Photo: Roth.

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is a bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the Pony Express area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of Dandi-Line and about 8 feet left of Sister Morphine. Start on Dandi-Line and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a #1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into Dandi-Line, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.


Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.

Photos of Pygmy Pony Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top. <br />Photo: Roth.
Near the top.
Photo: Roth.
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I did this line yesterday not previously knowing anything about it. I think it's better than Dougald and Dave imply. Yeah, I guess it's a bit contrived, but it is big fun for when you're in the area, easily toproped off the SM anchors and a safe lead at the grade (though not for breaking into it). For maximum contrived fun, I recommend the unprotected 20' direct slab approach off the ground (between DL and SM), nice quality, some kinda .10.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Gear and difficulty are both a bit height-dependent. I'd give it 5.9+....

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

The gear is tricky to place onsight, but it protects well. 9+ lead and maybe 9 on toprope.

From: Wherever we park!
Mar 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

Not so sure about this one. Contrived and awkward climbing.