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Cliffs of Insanity
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Unsorted Routes:

Puzzle Factory 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
Season: Save this one for the warm days
Page Views: 2,451
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Mar 9, 2009
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Fissure grippin' on the rock cliffs of Ooooh-tah a...


An easier version of Ruby's Cafe. Changing corners on purple and green camalots.


Mostly Purple and Green Camalots. Honestly #1.5 friends work best

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Brian Heppner
Brian Heppner
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 20, 2014
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 13, 2009

I think the FA is Scott Carson.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 22, 2009

OW to tough big fingers to nohands rest to enduro layback to finish.

Excellent route!

I agree that 1.5 friends work best. I took a bunch of 0.75 Camelots and they were tight prior to the rest but went in well for the finishing layback.

By Timmy! Tormey
From: Fakeville, USA
May 23, 2009

I would be hesitant to call this an easier version of Ruby's since it bears little resemblance to that route other than length. Cool route though.

By slim
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

i imagine there are folks that would call this a hard version of ruby's. when you get on this route, gravity literally snaps your head back and you have to hold on for dear life.

By Scott Bennett
Apr 1, 2010

Purple camalots go in well almost all the way up the route. Bring 6-8 Purple Camalots and 2-3 Green.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Aug 25, 2011

And how does it compare to Ruby's outside they are both corners and at Indian Creek? Ruby's is tight fingers to perfect fingers to a roof and back to tight fingers. The other is wideness to rattley fingers (for me). Am I missing something?

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 26, 2011

I agree Chuck

Comparing Puzzle Factory to Ruby's is a bit of a stretch.

By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Scott's gear beta is spot on. Fat fingies would make this easier than Ruby's and the guys nickname is Tank, so...

By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012

Purple Camalots are key. 1.5 Friends might be spot on, too, but I think less so than the .5 Camalots. The crack is mostly too tight for .75 Camalots or red Metolious TCUs and too big for orange TCUs.

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013

If you try and plug purples in all the way you could die...or nearly so like Dood who got photo'd ripping Blue cams out of Rubys...that's about where the resemblance ends. 1.5 friends work best just like yellow stuffs into Ruby best.

By Cristiano Pereira
4 days ago

Transitions between corners are the cruxes. A bit of a puzzle factory for sure. Hope to get a red point next time around.