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Neighbor Of Putterman
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Putterman's Big Toe 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Shelton/Jason Elliott
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Brian Shelton on Mar 9, 2002

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Mark Tjaden cruising the 3rd ascent of Putterman's...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Route is on the north side of "Neighbor of Putterman". It is the first crack on your left after you pass The house Of Putterman"


Rack: hand size and #3 BD for crux. 1-4 RP's Right facing dihedral, low angle start up to vertical at crux. The route is about 50 feet it has no anchors so take RP's. Lower the follower and then throw the rope to him thru a 8 inch break in the wall behind you. Rap off his weight. rope pulls great.

Photos of Putterman's Big Toe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Colter leading Putterman's Big Toe.
Ben Colter leading Putterman's Big Toe.
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"
BETA PHOTO: North Face "Neighbor Of Putterman"

Comments on Putterman's Big Toe Add Comment
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By Dan Russell
Apr 1, 2002

We added a two pin anchor with slings last week, so the rappel isn't so complicated now. Also, when you use the chimney that forms on the left wall half way up the climb, it drops the grade to 8+ or 9, something like that. Great route!
By Brian Shelton
Jun 6, 2002

A new variation of the line has been done by Mark Tjaden. When you reach the wide section on the left about 3/4 of the way up the route stay half way in it, this makes the route about a grade easier. (Stemming through the crux hands section at the top is a fun and highly recommended line.) We have also added a 2 pin anchor at the top so the rap is now straight forward.
By Brian Shelton
Sep 3, 2002

There is now a two bolt anchor. Make's for a better follow.
By Mark Tjaden
Oct 24, 2002

This area is dirty so be careful, but the challenge of trying to stay in the crack is wicked cool. Keep the Desert clean and untained.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did the 9+ grunt crux. I hope I'm not actually beginning to enjoy offwidth! Next time I'll be smart and try the stemming.

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