|Below The Old New Place
Stem between the two cracks just right of the large roof. Like many crack routes at 'Below the Old', many small face holds are available. The crux is near the top, where it steepens and the right crack widens.
Twin hand cracks just left of Scandanavian Airlines. (If you get to a bolted route on the approach, you've gone too far.) Starts just right of a big roof about 6' up.
Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 3"; don't need anything tiny. Bigger cams may be useful at the OW pod at the top but other gear also works. Traverse right at the top to get to the Scandanavian Airlines anchors. Use a directional placement at the top of the crack, if setting it for a follower.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Nice climb. Easier if you use both cracks. The right-hand crack gets nice and wide up at the top. May sketch out some to traverse right to the anchors, but it's really not bad at all.
|By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)|
Nov 26, 2012
I gotta admit, I'm not sure I did the FA of this route (I would bet $100 those old guys---my pal Norbert included) probably climbed it years before. And I never named it except maybe as a joke in that 1991 piece in R&I on White Rock. I certainly never submitted it to MP. Anyway, the long look from being old is kinda fun....