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Broken Tooth
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The Incisor 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Howe
Page Views: 2,702
Submitted By: eDixon on Sep 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Kyle Kubes at the small roof on "Pussy Wuss Crack"

Description 

Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar. Starts with a hand to wide-hand crack then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof. Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to the anchor. Really fun route.

(Per Max Schon's 2002 description for Unnamed 5.10/11(?) - "This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+"


Protection 

#3 - #4.5 or new #5 Camalots.



Photos of The Incisor Slideshow Add Photo
get mad an send
get mad an send
Barnes at the Creek
Barnes at the Creek
SLAM! in to the wall! crack yer head .. poop a lil
SLAM! in to the wall! crack yer head .. poop a lil...
feet first
feet first
pull up pull up
pull up pull up
Not too bad up to this point...
Not too bad up to this point...
lock it down
lock it down
...then it gets hard.
...then it gets hard.
then eat shit!
then eat shit!
Kyle Kubes on Pussy Wuss crack
Kyle Kubes on Pussy Wuss crack
Here is a shot from the bottom. Good stuff.
Here is a shot from the bottom. Good stuff.
LETS KICK IT!
LETS KICK IT!
Comments on The Incisor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Schon
Nov 14, 2003

I didn't intentionally apply the bomb rating; didn't even notice it. Do you think the route is 5.10?

By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Dec 2, 2003

This climb is a blast!! Initially very easy it goes through a very strenuous offwidth bulge in a wide #4 Camalot size. The last bit is best protected by two #4.5 Camalots (or walking just one #4.5 for a while). I would lean towards the 5.11- rating for this one. By consensus with friends, the hardest moves at the bulge are definitely in the 5.11 range.

By SirVato
From: Boulder
Mar 28, 2006

The route is called "Pussy Wuss Crack" The guide has it at 10+.
It's pretty casual to the bulge but, pulling that roof is tough!!
Two of my friends onsighted it I just rode the TR.

By Jim Howe
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 29, 2007

Tommie and I put that route up. I Intended to continue to the top but a chopper flake sits up there, and I never went back to it. It is definitely a sandbag. Quinlan and Jim Olsen did the second ascent and asked what I rated it. Under the influence of a superbowl tequila bash I said 10+,..It ain't. Where the name "pussy wuss" came from I have no clue. For me it was "the Incisor". up front and gnashing.

By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Feb 1, 2011

thanks for the story of the FA, one of the hardest 5.10s @ the Creek for sure. awesome line. Like your original name the best too!

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 4, 2011

Approch shoes = 5.10b