Pussy Whipped 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Scott Bennett on Apr 4, 2009 |
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Scott laybacking for glory high on "Pussy Whipped"
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Description This route is very good, not as great as many of the classics on the Cat wall, but still quite worthwhile.
The route starts with a tight corner, rattly fingers size. It's not that hard, though, since a combination of chimneying and stemming helps with upward progress. Pull an easy roof on some flared hand jams, get a good rest, and then charge up the right facing corner above. This starts as rattly fingers and then narrows to tight fingers up high.
Definitely an enduro crux; the finishing corner is long and has only one marginal rest.
Location This route is to the climber's left of 9 lives, on the far left side of Cat wall. Look for the 2 metolius rap bolts atop a shallow RF corner.
Protection (In Camalots) #0.3-#2, with an extra 0.4, and many 0.5 and 0.75 (purple and green).
1.5 Friends work very well in many places on this route, so bring em if you have em.
Also, a long sling or two might be useful for arranging your pro coming out of the stembox and around the mini-roof.
| Comments on Pussy Whipped |
|
By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Apr 4, 2009
| Thanks to whoever put in the new metolius rap bolts on this thing, good looking hardwear. Make sure, though, that you use a couple long slings while TRing, in order to reduce the inward pull that might turn these bolts into spinners. A couple chains might help as well. |
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 27, 2011
rating: 5.11+
| This route has awesome stemming for the beginning. Make sure the leader places gear in the left crack or the rope could get stuck while on lead in the right crack. I had to down climb the route, pull on the rope, and build an anchor to get the rope unstuck. |
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